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Where the middle pinch rollers can cause "print quality" issues is on softer or thicker media, such as banner, when the roller creates a very tiny impression in the media, which shows up as a visible vertical line the width of the pinch roller. This is caused by a tiny difference in the distance...

I need to see pics of the edges on both sides of the fill test, close enough to see detail.

Chris, See attached...

Print the fill test pattern in service mode. Watch while it prints and see if you have any obvious banding during the print passes. When it's finished, examine the both edges of each color, take pics and post them please.

Good to know! Thanks! So many variations...

Another thought... I would bet your printer and software are configured as CMYKW. This would be why you get the "shake ink" message. That is usually when white ink is involved. The other inks should only be gently shaken when installing a new cartridge, and do not need to be shaken regularly...

Most likely head alignment. However, the question needs to include much more information, like brand, model, ink configuration, etc.

Power the printer off completely before you remove the ink cartridges and shake them. Roland chips only hold ink type info, not ink used. When you remove them with the power on, the printer assumes you are replacing an empty with a full one and resets the display. The cartridge will still stop...

Lost it years ago, darn it! Red handle flat blade with a clip and heat shrink on the shaft. Back in the days of tubes. First troubleshooting step was to look for a tube with a dead filament. Confirmation was to touch the glass top to see if it was hot or cold. After that, dig out the schematics...

You are very welcome Chris. It was good meeting you as well and Rascal enjoyed your company!

Good luck with your new found abilities! :rolleyes: I don't think that box can be closed...

When you are ready to be adventurous, call me. I've been doing this for years and was a US Navy electronics technician back in the day.

Great! Once you get it, if you call me, I will walk you through testing the transistors.

Do you have a way to check the transistors and to replace the fuse?

Those are the correct fuses. I suspect your existing cables are probably ok, but check the traces at the ends of the cables for any damage.

Yes. Otherwise, you may just blow the fuse again. It's a simple test and will get you running quicker. What kind of fuses did you get, and hopefully more than 1?

Then you definitely have a blown fuse. It would be best to determine if there is further damage before replacing the fuse. The output transistors need to be checked first, because if one of those is shorted, you will only blow the fuse again. You will need a multimeter to check them. To...

When you did this, did the black/cyan head stop printing? I presume you swapped the cables in pairs without crisscrossing the cables in each pair.

I can guide you through how to check the fuses and output transistors. Call me at the number in my signature. It will be easier to talk you through it than explaining it here.

This should help. And be sure to use a long PH1 (not a #1) Phillips screwdriver so you don't hit the dampers and break the manifold post. Also, you don't need to tighten screw #1, the middle screw, until you finish the bias and vertical alignments. Don't forget to enter the head rank and clear...