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I would suggest you try a new Ink Tank Collector to eliminate a bad chip on the Collector.

Just research the market for printers that have good heads.

The printer you have requires this print head - p/n 6000004769-1. The -1 is important. Just under $1050 and appears to only available from dealers. The part number without the dash number is for models with an earlier S/N. The double damper is p/n 1000015256 around $65. Captop is 6000004658 and...

Post it here...

Possibly. Could be a defective cap top. Or a bad head. My suggestion is to get the S/N of the printer (so you know the printhead cost), research the current market for this model, deduct the cost of a new head, dampers and installation and make them an offer based on that.

If you find it for $500, I'm betting it ships from Malaysia or Indonesia, meaning send your money and wait and wait and wait and wait and realize you got ripped off. The cheapest I find the head is for around $770 from Digiprint-Supplies. Also there are 2 variants, depending upon your serial...

I did it backwards from the usual path. Shot & processed Ektachrome and printed & processed Cibachrome. Still have a Ciba I printed in 1978, hasn't faded one bit. Fantastic material...

Once the print head carriage is locked in place, the cut carriage and print head carriage will separate on their own as part of the process.

Ah, the wet days! Spent 16 years as an industrial photographer, C-41, E6, EP2, Dektol, Super Chromega DII, the smell of fixer on your fingers... sound familiar? Even though I loved it, I'll take Photoshop everytime...

Colorcrest will hopefully chime in and agree or not with my assessment. You are trying to match two print systems that only have two thing in common, the name Roland and the vinyl. I am not a color scientist by any means, but I've been profiling, both as an independent and for an ink...

Yes, the print head carriage needs to be locked in place when you do the cap position step. Move it to the left just a bit from the home position and then slowly bring it back to the right until you hear 2 faint clicks and immediately stop moving it. Try to push it back to the left, it should be...

+1 for Marabu ink. Used their solvent ink ink in 6 Mimaki JV300's and their sublimation ink in both Mutoh and Epson printers with no issues. However, this was in a production environment where the printers were running 12-18 hours a day.

It's best to refill the refillable cartridges while they are in the machine, rather than removing them, as the seals will start to leak after being repeatedly being punctured by the ink needle.

The XR's are quite different, not as simple as the DX4 head printers.

You have backflow contamination. Look at the ink lines and see if the cyan looks black and the yellow looks magenta. If so, hopefully it didn't go all the way back to the ink cartridges. You will need to do enough power cleans to clear the lines or an ink fill.

Any pic of the network connector?

Sounds like a consensus. Let me know if you need a tech...

Odd, the same problem on both machines. Does the second printer act exactly the same, i.e., the blade not dropping, just in a different location? The first thought is the cut carriage ribbon. Relatively inexpensive and is user replaceable, if you're so inclined. What usually happens is the...

What you are seeing is either static induced or the magenta channel starting to fail. What is your head height? Put it in the lowest position and see if it goes away or gets better. As was asked above, does it happen on more than one media? Does it get better if you slow down the head speed?

To be clear - lightly lubricate the rail itself. My post seemed to indicate lubricating the bearing blocks. The oil on the rail will do that.