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Tape it in place, apply the top 6"-10" then work your way down the rest of the way. Let the graphic hang and don't pull on it it won't stretch and it is a lot easier than the center hinge.

Well the weather has held off well for you all, but it is starting to rain there as I watch it now...

I did the stripe on this truck using reflective vinyl and had no problems, it got cut at the tail light and continued onto the tailgate. Piece of cake! http://i.imgur.com/ye6mw.jpg http://i.imgur.com/KLiLd.jpg

I love the tailgate on the Ford. I always thought that with the new design of them that they looked a lot like a garage door! Nice work! :cool1:

For a truck I like to do the whole side of the box in one piece, then there are no seams. They are usually pretty easy to do and it looks the best that way. Other than that, I prefer the vertical panels, but I wrap by myself so it makes it easier. On a side note, if you are having trouble...

I agree, 751 should work fine. Just by your description of the wall it sounds like you really aren't sure what it is. I would maybe suggest taking a scrap piece of 751 and a couple other options to the place and adhering them. There is a vinyl adhesion test that you can use or just leave it...

That is the first thing I noticed too...

^+1 VHB is awesome and much easier than anchoring them in. Also, it looks a lot better in the end when you don't have big blue TapCon heads or other anchor heads protruding out. You could also use a more aggressive adhesive between the strips of VHB for a little extra insurance too...

Yeah, we usually would spray a light layer of alcohol and then scrape off the ink with a plastic razor blade. It seemed to work pretty well.

We did a job approximately 15 months or so ago, about 50 2'x3' prints for our hospital. The were just graphics with dry-erase lam that we installed for them outside of rooms so that they could change information on a regular basis and so forth. About a month ago we got a call saying that...

The place I used to work at would use alcohol to remove any ink the that was sprayed on the bed of the printer caused by overspray from an edge to edge print, and I too have used it several times to remove the ink from coro signs as well. I would definitely wear gloves but I don't think there...

I agree with both other posters on the cut vinyl. Are the colors that you are going to be using available in an exact match or close enough match in cut vinyl to please the customer? If not, you may end up having to use printed.

IMO, less is more. Their brand is internationally known and they don't need a catchy logo to draw in customers. They went with something simple and a lot can be said about that.

I am sure primer 94 is not recommended for Busmark. It is only for the 3M wrap vinyl I believe. We use primarily use Oracal and they sternly advise you not to use any primer. On another note, if it does work on Busmark, and you won't be the person doing the removal of the wrap after the...

Sent a vote your way, sweet partial wrap! :clapping:

A semi-simple way would be to hang a couple eyelets and use an s-hook through the sign, clinching it after it is put through to prevent it from falling off. You would somehow need to reinforce the holes in the sign if you used dibond because the s-hooks would wear right through it. Not sure...

I was able to get three stars in the kayaking!

I am going to have to try this stuff. Where do you get yours from? I have always hated the wrinkles in the hems from rolling the banner when I have used the tape. We sub out our sewn banners for outdoor use but tape everything that goes inside. Definitely going to purchase some HH-66 to...

+1

:U Rock: but...the newspaper writer spelled your company name "Picadilly" I was easily re-directed to your site through Google, just thought I would bring it to your attention.