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When using Wasatch Rip and Profilemaker, I measure the color chip, and then enter my lab values into Wasatch spot color replacement. Most times colors look better if I use the lab values and have Profilemaker calculate a device CMYK color for me and I enter that into the rip. Either way I'm at...

The test print is done at a slower head speed than usual printing, so it really only shows clogged nozzles. I uncovered a problem with my heads when I was doing a bi-dir calibration. It showed some deflection that I did not see with my normal test print.

Could also be faulty memory. Just had that happen with my laptop. Just replaced the memory and I'm good now. The memory could be failing due to it being too hot.

Interesting. I ran Triangle MLD for 2 years before switching to something else just for price. I was always happy with my results with Triangle ink. Whenever I had issues it was air in the lines or a damper problem, or a head going out.

I can see it in the finer portion of the service mode test print. Basically the dots are pushed in the direction of head travel, as if they are being fired too slowly.

No luck pushing cleaning solution through the heads. No change in the test print. Just out of curiosity, would having the wrong head rank setting eventually cause something like this? Just wondering.

I loved using the Triangle MLD ink and it should not be your problem. Something is causing a row of nozzles to drop out.

I manually clean the heads with swabs at least once a week, but twice if we're busy. It's not static or dirt or the media. Nozzle test prints look quite good, actually. That's what threw me off. But they are done at a slower head speed. In the bi-dir calibration print, the faster the head...

Your agave print on clear will only look good during the day. At night it will be washed out by the light coming through it. Good translucent color requires a layer printed on clear and a layer printed on white translucent. The white layer is visible during the day and the clear layer under it...

I think what you are seeing is the resolution of the printer - the physical dots. What setting are you printing with? Looks like some kind of low res print setting.

Gradients: The newer upgrades to Wasatch Rip 6.4+ have beautiful gradients and it's a fairly cheap upgrade for the Roland Only version. Accurate colors from job to job: This requires accurate color profiles of your equipment, at your location, using your ink and vinyl, and your print settings...

I'm getting some nozzle deflection on my Cyan and Light Cyan heads. Attached is my bi-dir calibration test which really shows it off well. The standard nozzle test actually looks pretty good. I've cleaned and soaked the heads with no change. If I swap the cables to the heads, the problem...

All I can think of is to make sure your print is loaded perfectly perpendicular to the rollers. Measure to a mark on the print at the same distance from the top roller on both sides of the print.

Colorip will do all the tiling and repeating for you unless you want to arrange items a certain way in CorelDraw. The best method for getting your designs out of CorelDraw into Colorip is to use the "publish to PDF " function. Start with the "prepress" preset and modify the options to convert...

As long as the nozzle check is good, then yes, you likely need to do a full head alignment first, and then a bi-dir calibration. Any time the heads are removed from the printer, the alignment needs to be done. If your nozzle check is not good, then it could be any number of issues.

I've been using the PeNR inks for about a year now in a bulk system. They work as advertised and I'm quite happy with them. I do think that the Triangle MLD inks are a little bit stronger with a better yellow color, but the Bordeaux inks have been great and I'm getting an awesome price for...

I have an older 2004 SC-540. I see this band from time to time. When it starts to become more numerous, I do a full head alignment and bi-dir calibration and that seems to take care of it. From what I can tell, it's either from the pulley cable stretching over time or the slow wearing out of...

Roland doesn't want YOU to replace the cap tops. They want a service tech to do it. That's why you were never told. Neither was I.

They might be corrupted. They might not have saved properly, or there is a problem with your disk drive. Is it an external drive?

The ink is translucent in nature, so it's pretty hard to get the ink to block-out the background unless you have a white ink option. One way is to print it double-strike, but that will shift your colors and the media might not hold that much ink.