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And you can get through 1" in one pass? That's impressive! I've done it, but with no real speed.

Cast or extruded? In my experience, use cast if you want clean edges. Extruded is good for tenant panels in monument signs, or channel letter faces that are getting trimcap. Also, consider using multiple passes on materials thicker than, say, 1/4" to eliminate stressing the bits or the materials...

I haven't tried the iDot, but I'd think it or GlassAdhere would be your best bet to use without messing up the direct prints (unless they're laminated- but then it wouldn't be an issue).

What they mentioned above about it not being the right material, plus wait a minimum of 24 hours before laminating. I'm sure some will disagree with me about the need to wait, but it's what Oracal (and most manufacturers besides) recommend for any sort of solvent inks. (Yes, I realize the link...

Glad to see they got you up and running. Good luck!

I'd give Glantz and Reece a shot, too. One of them might have one in the warehouse.

Silicone for interior. Lexel for exterior if you're worried the silicone will fail. I'd also suggest using longer studs for exterior letters.

Oh man- that stinks. Try ebay, maybe? Even Amazon (I've been able to find all kinds of parts there that I was having no luck with).

According to the owner's manual, there's a tool for that. If it's anything like the ones that are used on other manufacturer's plotters, it should work fine. The old Gerber HS15's had a great pounce wheel feature. I'm not sure if they were ever made for the large Gerber plotters. I think you can...

VanderJ beat me to it. It's got to be a percentage thing.

This- or, reverse print on clear with white (if your printer supports it) and laminate/install as normal- on the inside, of course. If you go with the polypro, I'd strongly suggest using optically clear souble sided adhesive (yes, there's a difference between it and just clear).

Oh, and standard sheet suppliers for aluminum sheets.

Depends on the materials you're looking for. Rowmark and Gemini dealers for ADA materials and engraving bits (Johnson Plastics immediately springs to mind), Onsrud, Belin, or Amana for router bits (we buy our bits through our router manufacturer's local distributor). You can only get raster...

Put the face graphics side down on a wooden table (put cardboard or paper under it). Fit the Jewelite to the face, and put a nail into the table every 4-8 inches as needed to keep the Jewelite in place. Once you have everything in place, run the adhesive. Allow to dry, remove nails, and your...

Flatbeds.

I didn't even think of that part- good grief! RUN AWAY!

Pretty much every manufacturer is going to tell you that the steel will have to be painted before installing any sort of wrap film. That means sanding, prepping, prepping again when the weather doesn't cooperate, and painting. Then (probably) doing it again because the weather wasn't...

Muse can be vexing if you're trying to do something it doesn't support, but it's also pretty awesome that it's much easier for people (like me) who are used to working with Illustrator and know next to nothing about coding.

Sounds as though your rollers may not have even pressure all the way across, since it's pulling more in the middle than at the edges. Adjusting that would, more than likely, solve your problem. I recall a thread on here somewhere that walked you through getting all the tensions/pressures/etc...

Well, except for the cheap part, I'd suggest a textured laminate would work well to hide the "bumps" and dings on the door.