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Jester is correct in that the product names being used for material were usually the first ones to market. If I take the time to put a product name in the call-outs (Plexiglas, DiBond, Sintra) it's because I want that specific product used in producing the job. Otherwise, I'd use "acrylic"...

I know plenty of people love their "all in one" machines, but there's no way I'd have one. If one component or the other quits working, you're in a pickle.

Unless there were torrential downpours, I'd continue as planned for that type of install. Of course working with electrical components, a dig, or something else that might be hazardous in wet weather might get begged off depending on the situation.

Any sign supply house... Reece, Glantz, Grimco, etc.

I've never heard of using alcohol as an adhesion promoter. We use it to clean items we're printing on or to remove ink if we need too, though. I'd try contacting your supplier and getting some of the adhesion promoter that's recommended for your printer/inks. Some versions of it can be diluted...

It might look fine. It might look like garbage. Test it and see- but, for Pete's sake, make sure you aren't using it for an application where you should actually be utilizing cast material so your customer isn't bad-mouthing you because their printed graphics are failing prematurely. "Can I" and...

As far as I can tell, that model should have a reader. Check you manual and it should walk you through the procedure.

That was before I started here, but I believe they did.

I know we buy ink from them for our HP UV printer, and boxes for shipping- but I'm not sure if we get any media from them regularly. They seem to be pretty good with those items, though.

It they're "artists", why don't they do it themselves? I just love customers who argue with the pros they came to for help- usually because they heard some buzzwords somewhere. I think your options are: A) Persuade them to do it correctly if they insist on vinyl. B) Print it on wallcovering for...

Or remove the strokes completely if what you're cutting isn't supposed to have an inline and an outline. Addendum: I think there's a check box on the Flexi cut tab that will tell it to ignore strokes. Been a couple of years since I used Flexi, though.

Try using a long straight edge sitting where the edge of the material ends up needing to be when the hem is done and run your tape along it. Then, leave it there and put the edge of the material there and carefully squeegee the folded part flat. That's how I do it when someone insists on having...

I see my own experiences in many of these responses- and I think WildWestDesigns hits the nail squarely on the head.

For those signs, yes- it's the correct material. There are less expensive alternatives, but don't abandon 3M for them until you've tested them fully to make sure they're truly comparable.

On another thread, you mentioned you were printing on a Mutoh. If it's not profiled and it's not one of their eight color models, you're going to have to play with it to get the gray you want. There is a way to tweak individual colors on one of the tabs that pops up when you go to output (been a...

I needed a good laugh.

I'd suggest having an attorney do it- but it probably still wouldn't stop a lawsuit when the customer leaves it there for far longer than is recommended.

What eahicks said. Particularly if the PVC is unpainted (my eyes aren't good enough to see if it is).

I agree- it's best to work full-sized. Of course, Illustrator bones you there with a max of just under 19'. I also agree with what Rick said, too- in that particular case, Corel's scaling feature is much better than Adobe's limit. You'd think Adobe would've come up with a similar system by now-...

Are you 100% certain that your spindle is overridden to 15K? Because that's the only thing I can think of that might be causing it. Every other speed seems like it should be fine- but that 6250 RPM on that one program is far too low, in my opinion. I tend to run the spindle at near max to get...