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I get it now... Vertical seams, then (breaking the 85" into multiple pieces). When you roll it, your seams would not bend (much) and stay together better. I'll plus one the taping the seams with masking tape. Can't remember that trick ever failing, and I've worked with some less-than-stellar...

Run 1/2" or 1" aluminum on the Zund or Esko (something I've done plenty of times with a MultiCam). Don't get me wrong, I'd love to have either one of them for thinner plastics and finishing, but I'll stick with the MultiCam for cutting parts for sign fabrication (thicker aluminum, acrylics...

I'm guessing they're asking if there's a seam in the mask.

I wouldn't, but I suspect my comfort level with applying that graphic might be higher than yours or you wouldn't be asking. I'd say yes if you have any doubt about getting the hand and the name applied correctly.

We've had that same issue, and no one could ever adequately explain what it was- or why it happens only every 8-18" or so (instead of every pass across), and only on the direction change. We changed thermistors, purged ink completely and tried new inks, replaced lines, heads... Nothing worked...

DXF export (for me, anyway) seem to work okay from Illustrator- but bringing them in is a mofo if I need to check a file. Also (as someone else mentioned), DXF files will often come in as a ridiculous number of straight line segments- usually because the person doing the exporting doesn't export...

Most sign suppliers sell coil for these. As far as manuals, etc.- I'd suggest asking the Google. If there's a plate with a make and model number, use it as a search reference. Good luck.

Not having a router would make things tough, but- if you ever get one- it'll cut 1/4" aluminum, no problem (unless you get a cheap one). Just FYI.

Thanks! Learned something new. That's probably exactly what the OP needs.

In that case, maybe use a thicker vinyl to start with? I can honestly say I can't recall ever seeing a roll of laminate smaller than 30"- or one that had sprockets. I'd guess you'd have to have the laminate cut down to 14" or so then hold your breath that it would track straight enough through...

Z Signs is correct. And, if I recall, UL requires there be a backer on reverse lit elements.

Why not use Gerber's UV foil? Or do they not make that any more? Seems to me that'd be easier.

Our shop doesn't do a lot of cut vinyl anymore, but none of it is calendared, except- maybe- that eight year old roll of glow in the dark stuff that's had maybe 10' cut off of it in all that time. The only print media we have that isn't cast that we've bought is what's left of a roll of Oracal...

May I ask why you're using Avery print media, but not Avery laminate? Personally, I've had instances of mixing manufacturers in that manner that didn't really work out well. Even more so when the media is calendared instead of cast.

Since your printer is a 54", I think your options are: A) Tape/Sew. Carefully. B) Invest in one of those heat-seamer/welders for banners (still, carefully) C) Convince the customer to go with a 54" banner. D) Outsource.

To answer your question about disservice, I'd say no. If you feel like you need to match the sheen, you could always use matte black. In my experience, high performance matte black is the exact same thing as the "translucent".

Anyone have a source for new or used Vutek parts- especially for older machines like the UltraVu 2360 SC?

Holy crap! I'd think that stuff would be brittle as hell by now!

There is actually a translucent etched look vinyl, but damned if I can remember who makes it. I do remember Arlon having quite a few varieties of etched-look vinyl.

This is not a new phenomenon. Back in the mid 80s, I worked for an industrial supply company that made hydraulic assemblies, steam hoses, gaskets, and such and we'd constantly have customers who wanted same or next day turnaround on items that were standard 3 days or more (depending on...