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Sorry, going to have to disagree....the cordless stuff that's out will easily hang with their corded counterparts...often even outperforming. Doesn't matter if it's for studs, like the OP is asking about or if it's for large anchors & rebar...there are cordless options that king. No cords. No...

Just about any of the big name drills will perform well. It more depends on if you currently have a cordless line of tools. If you do, it just makes sense to get that brand. If you don't, the next factor would be how much you will actually need/use it. If the answer is 'rarely', you could look...

This. I've always used fishing line and a small sinker.

Lots of variables here. Here's my take on this... Let's say he's dealing with 1/4" acrylic (which isn't a true 1/4"....more like .220") and he's stud-mounting it. They drill maybe 1/8" into the acrylic and tap it. The studs thread in maybe a turn and a half. He installs it in brick with...

I'm curious what additive that has that makes it adhere to plastics/acrylic. Your typical neutral-cure or acid (acetoxy)-cure silicones on smooth, unfinished acrylic can usually be peeled off pretty easily. It doesn't mean a sign installed with it will fall down, but it doesn't guarantee that it...

I wish people would stop recommending silicone for acrylic. It's adhesion to bare acrylic is nothing to write home about.

You mention acrylic and that it's 15"x14" but you don't mention how thick it is - that's going to influence what you use. Stud-mounting would be the best option. If they don't want a lot of penetrations, drill and tap for one stud at the top and use tape and Lexel on the rest. Not sure what...

Sold

Brand new, complete kit minus the battery. Includes only what is shown. Will ship in original box. $260 shipped to the lower 48.

Thanks! No, I don't typically have the cargo carrier on the vehicle It just bashed my bumper and doors in.

Not putting the boxes on the doors. I've replaced those with the four parts organizers that are on top of the Tstak boxes (2 on each side). They're great boxes with some really nice features. Not putting the ladder rack in. Most of my work is lower level so I've decided to not carry that ladder...

I liked the first one so much, I got another (haha)... Actually, the other one got rear-ended........three times. No joke. The first and third individuals did not have insurance. They received tickets and went on their merry way. I was left with a dented up bumper and van. The second one had...

I definitely appreciate the recommendation, thanks! I don't install illuminated signs though, so I wouldn't be able to help on this one.

If it's a painted wall, I prefer stud-mounted just to avoid any potential issues with the tape sticking. Most of the common paints these days are designed to NOT have things stay on them (dirt, grease, stickers, etc.). That unfortunately also effects tape-mounted signs and letters as well as...

Easily a one-person job. Cut a slit down the backer at the center, tightly tape the entire piece of vinyl in place, untape half of it and roll it up to the center where you made your slit, peel back the backer and squeegee as you go. Repeat on the other end.

You bet. :)

Yes, but silicone is fine as well and is cheaper. And yes, Lexel is a bit more difficult to remove.

Silicone, Lexel....both are available in squeeze tubes. Silicone is cheaper obviously.

Lexel is great stuff but unfortunately it doesn't set up fast. That's really not too uneven of a wall. I've used VHB on worse walls, you just need to take your time and find the high/low spots and stack the VHB where needed. Since you have the chance to obtain other materials though, I would...

I have to do this pretty much weekly. I typically use a really thin putty knife to push/cut through the tape. If that doesn't work, I use Kevlar string. Very difficult to break and won't damage glass. click