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I've seen them but don't have one. Lots of mixed reviews on durability. I like my Fatmax and Komelon tapes.

Paint the insides of the letters with Matthews High Reflective White.

You're hitting rebar. Use Bosch Bulldog Xtreme bits. They'll go through rebar without issue, assuming you're using a decent SDS rotary hammer (and it WILL cut through rebar in seconds). You're not going to hurt the concrete by drilling the rebar. No cobalt or diamond bits needed. No regular...

Taping them would be fine. A 2'x3' piece of ACM weighs a whopping 6 pounds. Three 1"x1" pieces down the sides, four along the top and bottom (you don't even need that many - it's mainly to keep it from looking wavy by having multiple points of attachment. A few dabs of Lexel or silicone and it's...

Haven't read all of the comments but the easiest way is to just paint the backs.

Feel free to email info to moze@PrecisionSignServices.com and I'll be happy to take a look.

Coming from someone who installs Gemini's letters almost weekly - their patterns leave a lot to be desired....and that's being nice. Steel Art is the best I've used - in all aspects. Haven't used them a ton, but Howmac makes a really nice product. Dimensional Letters & Logos in McKinney, TX...

Eagle Rare E.H. Taylor Makers 46 1792 Larceny Angels Envy Buffalo Trace Blantons Jefferson's Ocean Dirty vodka martini w/bleu cheese stuffed olives...preferably at Barbacoa is Boise.

Awesome work, Phillip! That's some talent.

Guessing these are lightweight, I would just use 3M Command Strips to mount them and a level to install the bottom row of panels. In advance, cut whatever material to size to use as a spacer.

Texas_Signmaker They are pricey, but if you do a lot of surveys, they pay for themselves quickly. I just finished a bunch of bank surveys in West Texas. Preliminary surveys, no exact dimensions needed, just approximate. For pylon signs, channel letters, etc., it's super quick to walk up, extend...

Humble, State, National

Typically on those, there are screws along the bottom lip. Remove those and the retainers/frame should lift off as one piece. It likely hangs on an angled frame.

What's with all the mention lately of paint drying for a month before applying anything to it?? As mentioned - tape & silicone...not just tape.

Measure the v.o. of the face, write it down. Take a 3x5 index card, slide the left side of the card into the left side of the cabinet between the retainer and face until it stops against the outside edge of the retainer. Mark the card along the face side of the retainer with a pen. Put the top...

3M and Lexel (not silicone) and no studs needed.

Why not stud-mount them?

You said 'exact' twice. If you need exact, you're going to need to get up in the air with a bucket truck. No other tool is going to give you exact. If you want approximate, there are a number of different ways, some mentioned above. I use a 40' fiberglass measuring pole for pylons, channel...

That wasn't really my point in mentioning 'Chinese'. My point was that the only place I could find an SDS like that was on sites like Alibaba and I was unable to locate the impact rating. So if the installer was using an SDS and has no idea how much impact force it has, that also sheds more...

If I see install advice that's glaringly incorrect, I typically chime in. This is one of those cases. For people to just state unequivocally that the guy that installed the stone is to blame and that the OP should tell their customer that is pretty crappy. All I picture is some guy working hard...