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Just a suggestion: get some plastic sheeting, spray the residue with Rapid Remover or similar, lay the plastic sheeting over it and let it sit. Do the same to the rest of the doors, then come back to the first and hopefully by then it will have loosened up enough to easily remove it.

A bit of a gripe here.... You guys that are just immediately blaming whoever installed the wall are jumping the gun. Have you guys drilled much for letters in these types of walls? I do it on a monthly, sometimes weekly basis. And even when I use a small 12v SDS, stones come loose. Did you...

What drill are you using? It looks like one of those Chinese/Alibaba deals and also looks entirely too large and powerful for what you're doing. I wouldn't be so quick to blame the stone installation.

Sometimes prep makes all the difference. I have two 2x4 brackets than hang on the front of the aerial lift basket. They're J-shaped at the top to hang over the basket and J-shaped at the bottom (in the opposite direction) so the panel can rest in them. If I'm screwing a large panel to a wall...

So how are you feeling a year later....?

Yeah, that won't work great on rivets. You oughta look into the Ryobi 18v sweeper.

Americus Glass on Jackson Street.

It scares the crap out of me that people are trying to learn how to build and install channel letters from a forum.

I use the step bits from Harbor Freight for drilling holes in acrylic. They're cheap and drill perfect holes. Have never drilled a pilot hole first, I just use the step bit.

Porcelain & ceramic suck to drill. I would recommend tape-mounting them if that's feasible. If you wind up drilling, you'll want a diamond core bit. Milwaukee's are decent and are available at Home Depot. Sometimes I use the diamond core bit to get through the glazing then use a glass & tile...

Ha, none. Just posting since I have hands-on experience with it. Professional painters love it, the finish is excellent.

I have the cordless Graco, it works great. Runs off the DeWalt batteries and you can spray for a really long time on one battery.

Just to reiterate how far tool technology has come, Hilti just released an impact that can scan the bar code on the box of fasteners and it will automatically set the impact to fasten to the specified torque. That's pretty awesome.

Kind of a broad question since the run time depends on a number of factors (outside temp, battery size, number and size of holes being drilled, material you're drilling into, etc.), but with an average size battery, I can easily drill around 150 holes for 1/4" drop-in anchors in concrete...

OP asked a pretty straghtforward question: best cordless drill & bits.....just trying to give him answers based on actual use drilling thousands and thousands of holes in brick, concrete, stacked stone, stone, etc. I'm drilling in that stuff monthly....sometimes weekly. I've been through a...

Forget the cordless models? The cordless models also have zero issues drilling through brick/masonry. Plus he said he wanted cordless. That model you posted has no notable benefits over the cordless model. Slightly faster? Yes. Slightly. But you also have to deal with a cord and a power...

24v (discontinued) and 18v is old, old, OLD technology....

In the interest of not steering people wrong, those were the old stem pack DeWalt tools....assuming these are the same DeWalt tools you've referenced in the past as being junk. The newer DeWalt tools are definitely not high end home user. All of the big players are on a pretty level playing...

He just mentioned drilling for studs in brick....so I'm guessing he's not drilling much more than 3/16". But even so, there are cordless rotary hammers that will drill 3/4" holes all day with ease.

Gotchya. I haven't purchased tools in a box store in quite a while...everything I get is off Amazon, Acme Tools, CPO, etc. Cordless SDS Plus drills have been out for quite a few years. SDS Max ahas been out for a while as well. Just about any construction tool out there is available in a...