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Not meant as a knock against any of the other suggestions, but I don't think there's really a bad way to learn (unless you learn it wrong, I guess), but I second the "go to the shop, observe and ask" method. The folks fabbing the letters/shapes/etc. will often have years and years of experience...

That's my guess, too. It was orange on the last Mutoh I ran, but that was a 1624.

I'm old. My schools had asbestos tile flooring. Hope you manage to come up with a good solution.

Oooh.. Sounds a lot like the custodial staff isn't using the right stuff anyway. Or that's a really nice school to have some sort of porous stone flooring! OP- what kind of floor?

That's awesome, then! The principal needs to convince the custodial staff to use the proper (recommended) wax and forego the stone protector formula. If not, and you've already alerted them that there's going to be an issue, it pretty much makes it their fault. Laudable that you're wanting to...

Is it possible to (easily) remove the stone protector (without damaging the graphics)? That might be the best avenue- and getting them to use the appropriate wax.

I actually think your blade holder may be worn out. Doesn't happen often, but it does happen. Since you've eliminated the blade itself, your cutting strips, and your settings, looking at it would be the next logical step.

Looking for honest reviews of the HP Latex 3100 from actual users. Interested in finding out if they have the same issues as the previous models (trouble with color reproduction, material waste, etc) and anything else- good or bad- that you might have to offer. Thanks.

Looking at the photo, I don't really see anything that would make me believe there was anything wrong with the calibration or that the head was dirty. Instead, it looks like you've selected the wrong print mode in Flexi (this is an assumption, since they "give" you a copy when you buy the...

Curious why you think that? It looks very much to me like the copy is engraved and paint filled- not raised (unless the angle's doing something really weird to my eyes). Unless someone started with a blue substrate and printed the background. But even then, the edges of the copy/logo look like...

Tell the customer their options are: A) provide the file as requested or 2) let them know you'll create a usable file out of their garbage for $XXX (whatever gets the point across for you) and let them decide. If they insist on creating their own files, they should learn to do them properly. I...

Unless it's a Kodak/Encad printer. If those POSs sat without running for more than about 48 hours, the inks were pretty much guaranteed to have dried up in the heads. Then again, if it's one of those, it's been collecting dust for more than 10 years.

First off, I'll echo JBurns' question- do you have the Print & Cut version? It is the only version that will accomplish what you're attempting. The video you post is for the "starter" version, so if that's what you're running- you can't. Second, if you have the Print & Cut version, are you...

Be forewarned- last time I had to get pricing on it, it was crazy expensive- though it balances out by being very durable. Sometimes it's hard to get your customer to understand that, though.

The simple answer is, profiles don't last forever. Even if you haven't changed anything, wear and tear on the machine cause profiles to "drift." Since there's nothing mechanically wrong (evidenced by your nozzle prints being fine), then the most likely culprit is the profile/linearization is...

As Pauly mentioned, the answer is yes. Also, don't buy anything from that sales rep, as they're either ignorant or willfully misleading you.

Oracal lists the 651 series as Thermal Print Compatible. The 631 series, however, is not listed for that use. In fact, next to "Printability," it says NA. You'll be fine printing on 651. I wouldn't bother with the 631 for anything other than maybe a protective layer for parts unless you do a lot...

Some surfaces (plastics like coroplast, some PVCs- unless you pay extra for "digital ready" or whatever they're calling it now- and even some paints, for instance) aren't suitable for the ink to "grab" the surface of and hold on. The adhesion promoters act much like 3M's adhesion promoter for...

And it's completely possible you might need to use an adhesion promoter- whether you have initial adhesion problems or not.

We use a lot of 3M media. In my experience, it's not that unusual to see less than straight cuts on the leading edge of rolls. As far as using the slit roll, as long as the slitting process didn't leave a lot of "string" on the edge, I wouldn't have a problem with it. Don't think I've ever seen...