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Has anyone heard of it? It's an evidently new line of wallcovering that looks like metallized paper. Just trying to track down the manufacturer so I can read up on the stuff. Thanks.

Best asked of Oracal, I'd think. I always did the rivets by hand- if it was too hot to touch, it was too hot. But, there were also times I'd just work my fingers around it. The heat generated there would often suffice.

751 isn't a wrap material (unless they've changed it). You shouldn't need to be heating it at all. Edit for clarification: Under normal circumstances, heating is not needed. 751 is normally for cut vinyl graphics. Yes, it can be heated a bit to cover rivets that might be under what you're...

Putting in a thicker material is the only way I've ever gotten it to exceed that .12" limit. Normally, it works when I need it to.

Are the sizes different on each one? You should be able to paste them, resize them as a group, and put space between them in three steps.

Copy/paste? Or are you looking for something other than that?

Color me jealous! Acadia is a dream trip of mine.

Also, make sure the USB port isn't being powered down at any point (it's in the PC's settings, but I don't remember where). If the port powers down (energy saver mode, or whatever) it can cause connection issues. I'd check that- then check USB cables/adapters/etc.

Before this thread gets derailed by pointless back and forth, I'll this and no more: No, that's not what I said. Feel free to read my post again.

Neither are reading and comprehension. The OP mentioned both rivets and ribs- and even provided pictures.

You know, on second thought- that might be the best move!

Second this method, but I'd suggest using the Rapid Tac in this way. Spray it on, let it sit about as long as it take to squeegee about 8' of it (my experience) and remove. You might not even need the scraper. Bonus: I've never seen it mess up a laminated print (not saying it won't, but I've...

Make sure whatever you've drawn has a solid fill and no stroke. Export full scale as the most recent version of AutoCad your Illustrator supports. You can verify the file is good by simply opening it once you're done. Oh... and it's splines, not spines.

While I agree with the "use cast" posters, 3M's literature might lead one to believe that IJ40 is not necessarily the wrong material. It mentions rivets twice, but does not mention it's not really suited for the job. (But yeah- it's not the right stuff to use)

Kind of depends on the manufacturer and shade. 3M's Green looks kind of like 3425 (same as their Dark Green 7725 series) while the Light Green is close to 355.

Your call, obviously, but you aren't going to notice much difference with just 1/16" of an inch. Now, going from 1/8" to 1/4", sure... Either way, both of the vendors I mention sell off the roll and should have what you're looking for.

Pretty much the same Wilkinson blades I use in my razor. And yeah- the ones I got from Amazon had 100 of 'em, too. I don't shave that often (twice a week, maybe), so I'm still on the pack I bought a year ago. Also, we use Zippy cutters all over the graphics shop.

Calsak and Piedmont are vendors that come immediately to mind in the metro Atlanta area (not sure where in Georgia you are). They should have rolls of polycarbonate they can cut to size for you. Also... I'm with Gino- why won't 3/16" work, but 1/4" will? Also agree with oldgoatroper- don't use...

Maybe something got spilled on your heaters? Just tossing it out there because we use DigiDri heaters for post-drying prints on our Seikos, and the heaters themselves will give off a smell when they cook off any dust that's on them. Might be worth checking your heaters to find out. As far as I...

You see decorated doors in parking decks all the time. But, I'd agree about asking before hand!