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I would think you won't have a problem- the doors usually have a gap for clearance where they slide into the walls.

If the photos are straight on, scale the photo to the measurement you have and everything else should be simple enough to figure it out.

When it's my call, absolutely.

You know, I thought that, too- but I'd think that would have a sharp edge to the cleaned out parts, even as thin as the face of most ACM is, that might cut someone stepping on them, which I why I suggested an engraving material like Rowmark.

680, I believe. IJ680 is the printable version, anyway.

So I'm guessing you're talking about when you get to the cutting part? Having run a Mimaki without a catch basket, I would- in that case- suggest a piece of cardboard under the machine while doing the job- that should keep the dust/dirt/debris off the floor from contaminating it. That's one of...

You list welding/fabricating as part of your skillset on your info page- why not make them yourself?

Signburst Computers is a Merchant Member, and could probably offer a solution. I've never used them myself, but I've seen nothing but positive reviews.

I don't know how else you'd do anything longer than that without having to physically move the material so it didn't stick together as it comes off the machine. Doing that is time-consuming and counter-productive. I'd say spring for the take-up reel or only do smaller pieces.

Except for the water-cooled spindle, it looks very similar in set up to a Biesse. That is not a favorable comparison. For your company's sake, I hope you have better luck with it than I had with the Biesse. From experience with the Biesse, the cons include: - No network connection. You will find...

If you're asking how to get to it, use scaffolding, a pair of Little Giants with a walk board. Unless it's got some weird coating, the vinyl should stick just fine. Use a cast material made for wraps, and the appropriate laminate. And make sure the customer understands that the vinyl will not...

Try engravable material like Rowmark, maybe- if you can't find the material in 1/8".

Just set your depth to score the back (.005" or so) and you can use the same bit you use for cutting. Run around the outside of the stud marks as a separate file before cutting out. For PVC or acrylic, I use a 1/8" bit and drill the center of the stud marks anywhere from .09"-.50" deep...

I don't know how similar they are, but if the power goes out on us- we have to make sure the printerheads get to the capping station. On our Seiko, that involves removing covers to access the Z motor to lower the heads to the capping station. It's something I've only had to do in "practice"-...

Hard to say. As someone else mentioned, there are the national companies that say "we'll give you this much." I hated those, unless I just wanted to take a drive in the country on the weekend. I quote the hourly rate. They can take it or leave it.

I always base survey pricing on time, usually with the agreement that it would be rolled into a contract with the purchase of a sign/work related to the survey.

If I recall, Flexi sets up the Contour Cuts like an outline, so you have to separate it from the piece you're working on. I think the function to do that is under Effects, but I don't have Flexi on the machine I'm working on.

Regarding your suggestion of a private, invite only site for actual pros... I've set up a Facebook page called "Professional Signmakers". I don't have the web skills (or time) to devote to creating a new forum, so this is the best I can do. Feel free to spread the word if you're interested.

LinkedIn, Indeed, other actual job sites. To me, Craigslist is an absolute last resort- and only for "grunt" labor because it's exceedingly rare that respondents are above that level.

I'd use the break-away u-channel posts. You should be able to mount just about any sort of backer to them.