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https://files.signwarehouse.com/tech_assets/manuals/EnduraLam_150_+Manual_web.pdf

If it's aluminium face just use your standard acm vbit (folding bit) and your standard single flute upcut. I 've cut stainless steel faced composite and the standard acm vbit simply turned blue and snapped off like a carrot so I cut 8mm grooves for fold lines with a 4mm stainless steel bit and...

"--- So now I have 12 of the 56 where the ink has actually been pulled off the sign and stuck to the one facing" If these were stacked ink to ink it's no wonder they stuck together. At the end of the day it's your problem and you have to make good...sometimes a hard pill to swallow. Moving...

Thanks for the info and video. It's got good speed through that acrylic. I couldn't sense any drag at all.

I'm interested in how thick the chipboard is that you glue on the honeycomb and does it smoke when cutting? I've never heard of doing this. Can you elaborate more ? Thanks for the infos on the Kerns. It'd good to hear from real production users. You have helped narrow down our next laser...

Welcome from Sydney. How do you find the Kern for acrylic and what power, 400w? What do you do for fume extraction or is the paper over the honeycomb combined with the vacuum sufficient? What software do you use to program the Weeke, Woodwop? How do you find using that for signage...

Forget etsy, ebay and vehicle signage as your main market... The money for vinyl cut signage is in shops, businesses, offices and through shopfitters. Trading hours signage, simple directional stuff, lightbox panels, door name plates, wall graphics, window graphics, directory changes, frosted...

From my experience... VCarve, Aspire - from Vectric are very good and user friendly...maybe all you'll ever need. Engravelab/Profilelab/Signlab (with engrave module) /VisionPro - all from Cadlink, I found was better. (Used it for 10 years ) Enroute from SAI is the best for a sign shop...I'm...

He most likely is cutting acm, acp so when you use a downcut and climbmill all the swarf sticks to the scrap and not to the part that you want to keep

Haven't did any for quite a while but only success to stop the outgassing/discolouration from any adhesive was to apply that old chrome vinyl (mylar?) to the back of the laminated print, then silicon, vhb, whatever....

In ergosoft rip there is an option for printing 50% opacity on the overlapping seams for this problem. I've used it on large window prints on clear vinyl and it worked well.

Use a scraper with a good long handle and that can take the boxcutter blades. Keep turning the scraper over to use the other side of the blade as you are scraping as it self sharpens on the glass. Only scrape an inch or two width of the paint until you get used to the right angle and the...

Arrus Blk OSF BT (Black)

Yeah, they're perfect. I've made thousands of them. They are either hand fabricated, cast resin, molded or injected, that's it. Anything over 30mm thick is mostly fab, anything under is solid. If they are illuminated, they are opal acrylic with leds. In days gone by they were all internal neon...

That green letter doesn't look fabricated. It's a bit of an art making acrylic fab letters. You generally use 3mm acrylic, make a pattern on paper whatever and use a heat gun and a heat strip made from heating elements, a neon ribbon burner, self made type of oven thing to heat long strips to...

Enroute is by far the best for a sign shop, followed by Aspire. Fusion360 isn't meant to do stuff like this.

Seiko Colorpainters can use pink and yellow fluoro inks. You can mix them with CMYK to get different tints and colours.

We use a bits designed to route stainless steel to cut acm/acp. Single flute upcut at 400-500-600 inches per minute, climb cut at 24000 rpm but that's on a Biesse with 50hp of vacuum. Downcut bits work well too, as long as your spoilboard is freshly surfaced.

Sikaflex. Acrylic has roughly 2.5 -3 times the expansion of the acm so you need an adhesive with a lot of give, like the vhb with the sikaflex combo. Sikaflex is polyurethane based...seems to be the best we have used so far. Breaking down your acrylic panels into smaller pieces really helps...

You need way, way more vhb and way, way more silicon under that acrylic. Just putting around the edge won't hold it. Use 1mm vhb and large dobs of silicon so it spreads out under the acrylic. I'd split that bottom acrylic panel into 2 or 3 pieces as well. Run a continuos bead of silicon around...