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just make sure your van doesn't tell your market "Guys I have no training what so ever in design". the difference in a clean pro design that pops and a "fun" design/experiment can mean tens of thousands of dollars in orders per year. keep designing, keep submitting options. but don't let the...

reminds me of the calder bmw. i don't think it's going to bring business. your van is branding your business. and since this is comic framed, "tongue in cheek" design, it says to the next client that it's not a serious brand. go with classic, can-read-it-from-three-blocks-away type of...

i'd do a solid block of C M Y and K the full length of the printer to see if it is isolated to just one channel. there could be a clog in a line that is causing a peristaltic effect and pulling backward on the line as the ink lines head in the one (uni) direction. if it is across all channels...

probably a viscosity issue between the two inks. if you wanted to isolate that, you could swap dampers yellow to cyan, cyan to yellow.

turn your variable dot on and off for the same print and see if there is a difference.

i'd start a thread "want to buy" here on s101.

rasterlink pro is the "free software" that comes with the printer. i really really like it. believe it's a repackaged wasatch(?)

GREAT INFO! will look at all these suggestions.

okay... did the test and i did get M1960.9 and E0.00 value. 1. put in the new encoder reader (believe to be new) 2. do the encoder test 3. get M1960.9 and E1654.4 4. do encoder test 5. get M1960.9 and E1870.4 and Error 08 Encoder 6. to encoder test 7. get M1960.9 and E585.8 so i...

thanks for the info! i'll try that. i have a spare encoder sensor here to swap out for comparison.

i'll check that out. thanks update: tried it, although with an even older firewire cable. no difference. odd that the whole machine performs so "robustly" but no heads firing. it is completely unaware. this printer never hesitated to give an error code for just about anything odd. but...

just raised the encoder reader. it was set and a lower-most position. no effect. inspecting the trailing cable, looks good. there was some minor edge bends as the cables enter the slider board. this is from installing them and the edges getting roughed up a bit. i moved them around a...

back in september 2012 i had an issue pop up (intermittent) in which my jv3-160sp would run a print mechanically but all four heads would not fire. these are all new heads. the issue was discussed in this old thread...

have you tried NMP yet as a cleaner? it saved 7 dead km512 heads, then we ended up using it instead of OEM. i've also used in my toshiba heads on my h700 with success.

on these printers the manual explains some procedure for leveling out the pressure in the secondary tanks by zero-ing the reader then doing something else. every time i read it, i realize that i have limited reading comprehension and give up.

i have a spare gantry for that printer. aa

same thing happened to me once. it was the lever up sensor.

different printer but this is what i did. added pieces of pvc with vhb so that the tabs would barely brush the belt. i print on a lot of .030 aluminum and it was too thin to hit the bar.

the limac i used last year had some kind "air coolant sytem" type of thing that blew very cold high velocity air at the bit. it worked really well. the fluid system on the prior multicam being used was inferior for the 1/8" and thinner aluminum that we were cutting.

i only use the water because my pieces will then need to be brushed, printed, and coated which requires clean metal. the easiest thing to clean off is the soapy water. there are some really advanced bits out there but i prefer a straight cut for metal....no spiral up or down.