Search results

i think your work is always brilliant. but maybe on this one it's just too much for something as un-demanding as a title. more moody and classic, ...less steampunk?

the bent pattern is usually a head going bad. but like mentioned, i'd do a data swap to see if it follows the slider board ports vs the head.

since my partnership went south, and i've had people i've worked with for the last decade betray me, and spend and additional $200k trying to reverse engineer my work after we dissolved the partnership, ...i've since developed a bit better keener senses. and this guy was setting off the radar...

what's the viewing distance? when you mention "color solidity" are you meaning grain in the print seen a very close range or saturation (intense color)?

everyone on here has invested in each other. we are all experts at what we do. "signs101" hardly describes the wealth of knowledge here. our advice is valuable. someone new to the site with no experience should start out with a tone of humility rather than hubris especially when addressing...

i'm sorry. i now see that you've dedicated several minutes typing your request. that should count for a three year apprenticeship. maybe if you type a few more paragraphs, we can then qualify you as a veteran. you are a jerk. get off the board. go undercut every artist, printer, and even...

so you don't have any idea how to proceed. but would like us, who've spent decades and hundreds of thousands of dollars to set your business up for you? usually a consultant would be in order and he'd be compensated. this is a forum for professionals sharing trade info.

i think the best thing about the track saw is trimming printed panels. for flatbed work you can guarantee that you'll have the print always in the exact same spot, or perrrrrrfectly square. by printing trim marks, you can print and not worry about the perfection. this is what counts the most...

on skewed material, just print trim marks and get a track saw to cut around it. track saws don't depend on a fence to maintain square so you can cut the around the print regardless of the oblique line.

a tracksaw also works really well on super lightweight substrates. i often use it to cut wood veneer because it acts like giant scissors. also cut thin polycarb, petg, ....all things thin are not difficult to cut regardless of the floppiness of the material.

ink on the boards of the heads. when getting one of these going, there's lots of messing with the dampers and often a manifold can get a crack. if ink gets on the head, they will fry in seconds. you may run into a few "cover open" issues due to magnets lining up. you'll probably hack these...

shopbots? i can't kill mine. it's been stored in a tent and been rained on several times by being too close to the end and it still boots and cuts no problem. no errors, no break downs (except for two $3 capacitors in the last 20 years). i don't know what it takes for this thing to let me...

i'm guessing you had 3003 vs 5052 (which cuts easily). i've been hand routing aluminum for decades and it's just a matter of set up. 5052, good quality straight cut is a great common bit for this purpose. some might suggest single flute upcuts and such. a template guide/sleeve works well for...

i would not bring up to that SW location that the correct price is around $60 a gallon. it also can be wiped on the front of old paper backing that won't come off of acrylic. and is great at removing adhesive. ....turns it into rolly polly rubber.

latest and best blend is just the carbitol with the acetone. OEMs use the cellosolve as a filler solvent because the carbitol costs twice as much. i've seen vutek msds show that a head maintenance fluid was 100% carbitol. as for the logic in making your own fluid.

for white paint, this is the stuff. http://www.sherwin-williams.com/home-builders/products/catalog/pro-industrial-precatalyzed-waterbased-epoxy/

does this floral require the same wave form amplitude (AL # setting on each head) that the efi requires for it's ink? the CA4 head is very finicky if the ink viscosity does not match the AL#.

my universe just melted. i think everyone on this site was assuming that you are running a flora dedicated flatbed (CET) model style. so this is an EFI-rastek/daytona/flora build? for instance, i currently have an h700 (h652 aka F1-180UV-BA) what model is it? definitely do a block by block...

at first i was just "voltage is off". but that would cause the same ghosting above and below this mark. this printer has the km1024, not the km512 right? the reason i ask is i'm wondering if it's the 512 this may be a photo of the bottom or top half of a pass which would explain the isolated...

do you have a scanner there to scan a piece of what it is doing close up? at least now if you want to figure out if it is data related, you can do a data swap with the magenta to see if the issue can jump to a different channel.