Search results

Any scraping of the adhesive/beads leaves scratches in the clear coat. Have already done that years ago. If the layers don’t separate, I’ll use a heat gun or heat lamp. If the layers separate (3M), I’ll use the MBX tool.

That’s fine if it’s not 3M. 3M separates and leaves the adhesive and glass beads. I would use an infrared 3’ light on a stand on wheels with a timer when it’s not 3M. But when it is, I’ll use an eraser wheel. The ones for the MBX tool not the 1/2” thick solid 3M wheels.

I’ve used the Lil Chizler tool before but with 3M the top color translucent layer comes off then you’re left with the abrasive beads and the adhesive. Caused a lot of scratches. Used little pressure with the MBX TOOL yes you have to be careful and always use a good wheel and never go past...

I have the experience. I’ve removed reflective from ambulances but the Ford F-150 panels seemed very thin and I knew heat could be an issue. And was only looking for additional knowledge. It worked out fine with the MBX tool. That’s what I use when removing reflective from ambulances. Truck...

Just looking for any tips on doing this. I’ve been in this industry for 30 yrs. And removed vinyl and reflective a before. When it comes to removing reflective i usually use the MBX tool with the rubber eraser wheel. But I know the aluminum panels will require minimum pressure to not cause...

Hello. I am using SignLab Print & Cut ver 10. I have a Summa S2T160. I have 4 10"x10" decals to cut on 54" media spaced 1" apart. I have SL set to space crop marks at 12" apart. SL placed 3 crop marks on the right side and 3 marks on the left side. Don't know why because it was set to 12"...

I only have experience with Mimaki. But I’d say go Epson and separate print and cut if you want production. Say you have 100,000 labels to cut. Which set up would do it faster? After you’ve printed the first batch, you’ll be printing and cutting at the same time. My first machine was print...

For long jobs jobs try enlarging crop marks but use segmented crop marks, paneling.

I have this same machine that was bundled with my printer. I used this plotter for about 6 months. Did the same thing. I read up on calibration. For me it was a real pain. Ended up cutting some stuff by hand. When cutting laminated 3M 680CR, this was a nightmare. I said to myself if this...

Hi. I have a Mimaki JV150 printer. I usually use 3M 3200 to print on when making reflective signage. I called the vendor this morning and that product jumped up in price. They offered me Avery V2000 at almost $400 less $$$. Has anyone printed on this material with OK results? I am using...

You just have to re calibrate the sensor for the material. I've used the scotch tape trick. It's a waste of time. Takes 5 secs. to re-calibrate the sensor. It's in the manual. Also, if you have any lights over the machine you can turn them off and let the censor's light do the correct...

Tech called back and Alignment mode was set to Barcode when it should have been set to OPOSX in my case. Problem solved.

I printed some lettering and placed the print to be cut in the D75. When I hit cut (SignLab 10), the cutter is telling me to place the tool under the Barcode. I never printed a Barcode. I checked SignLab VPM and no Barcode is selected. I've had this cutter a couple yrs now and this is the...

Hi. I have a Summa S2 T160 and a Mimaki JV150-160. I am printing Black outlines and shadows on text on this imitation gold vinyl. Can the Summa be calibrated to know the difference between the vinyl's gold color and the printed Black crop mark? To date I've been printing on material with...

Hi all! Someone suggested I create my own color profiles and life would be much easier.. He recommended the xright i1 basic pro 2. After researching this, I see they are up to pro 3 now. And have pro 3 plus. Since I really know nothing about this, I'd like to be put in the right direction...

Well here's an update: I did the media and OPOS calibration. And set it to OPOS X. I cut the media and it cut perfectly!!! The drive roller did rotate abit but very slightly and I'm sure that was to compensate for any skewing going on. So the OPOS XY_Align was the culprit ALL this time and...

Just saying, if you are having issues reading the marks, instead of putting tape, which can be a long task, just do a OPOS Media Calibrate. The cutter will recommend the proper setting. That's what I'm doing now.

I think you got this thing nailed! I just got off the phone from Jeff at ND Graphics and that is what he told me too. The OPOS line was made to help compensate for the bowing in HP Latex printers. He suggested to remove that and go standard OPOS X. It kinda seems I have this ongoing issue...

If that could be the case then I should try a roll of semi-gloss lam and see if that stops any issues. I mean if the crops marks are being read wrong and the OPOS line is glared then this may be an issue. Or turning down the sensitivity of the OPOS reader. I sure hate testing!