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A shout out to Premium Sign Supplies in Telford, PA, for having numerous rolls of this RTape product in stock when it (the vinyl) is backordered until sometime in September. Hopefully the stock isn't too old, but when you need it - you need it!
While I always use an upcut, your setting tells the tale - change from climb cut to conventional milling and see if that gives you what you're looking for.
Bold, you know not of what you think that photo contains. That is most definitely a product from one of the fire apparatus companies I mentioned. It is real gold applied to an Edge print (or similar) on clear - on the reverse side, so the black edges are very crisp - then a clear contour cut...
If it's on a Seagrave, KME or Spartan fire truck, that's hand spun 23kt gold. Those manufacturers have their own process to produce hand-laid looks with the ease of a vinyl installation. You won't match it. Many other manufacturers are purchasing from those 3 and ordering things for their own...
"Body lines" is broad. Rocker panels or chassis is what I use. Bottom of the doors are 99% straight (level) with the rockers and chassis, so start there.
Search on here. Common boxes can be made depending on the thickness of the acm. Easiest method is routing a V-groove through the first layer of aluminum and the core, but not the outer aluminum later, and folding it as such.
Are you sure that's polycarbonate? Poly won't bend a clean 90° like you show in the photos. Either that isn't polycarbonate, or it's acrylic that's been cut and glued at a 90°. Or it's neither and a different material altogether.
Depends on how long you expect them to last. Any vinyl will work. Literally any vinyl that you can print on. Something with air release will be easier to apply, of course... I've used Ritrama 1955-503 RA for a number of projects and have had very good results with it.
Another option is to simply put a thin pinstripe (maybe black) alone that lower edge to help hide the uneven cut marks. Even then, you'll have to be very careful to get it straight where you want it. The thicker the line, the easier it will be. Take a second pair of hands if you need to... long...
You should also be able to download photo editing software right to your phone. Some of the basic ones are free (I use Aviary - you can mark up dimensions right on the photo through that app), others that have more editing power are a pay-to-play. That photo is easily edited even in basic...
The traditional 'diamond plate' is a polyester based vinyl. You'll be lucky to get a year out of it before it fails. You could laminate it and extend the life a bit, but I would look into other options. If you have a printer or know someone who does, I'd print the pattern along with everything...
^ The law firm sign looks good; the address plaques look like hell. Why did you not fill the scratch marks in the material? Between those and the drips into the lettering, that's about as rank amateur as it gets. If I was your customer, I would have never accepted those.
Pretty common. Darker colors absorb more heat and will bake the vinyl from the bottom up. I had a fleet of black police cars that I was replacing something every year as stuff failed (they finally got the hint and moved to silver cars). Metallics are the worst on black.
Assemble your own look. Metalcraft in Florida has posts and panels (and other stuff) separately, but they're getting very pricey. I've assembled similar looks through sourcing components - aluminum tube locally from a supplier, and aluminum caps/finials from a variety of online sources. Cast...
I haven't tried with my Summa, but I know it's limits. Any small variation in vinyl height will mess with the registration. That said, depending on your design, you may be able to contour cut the registration marks with a large enough margin for the Summa to read as a printed mark. If you are...
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