Search results

That changes nothing. I tried that. So when I view the actual cut it's going to make, it's a truncated section of the entire cut path....and I can't see the reg marks at either end. I don't get it. I KNOW I have contoured larger graphics in tiles before. Maybe this is a huge bug no one has...

I could have sworn that you could tile, print and contour cut an image that's, say, 80" wide (on to 54" material). I sent my print, tiled in half, then loaded on the plotter, only to find that my contour cut file did NOT split in half like my print. I swear I have done this before. What am I...

You kidding? This is an hourly thing for sign companies.

Ha...yeah everything is loaded correctly. it will run for a while then start this problem. You can sit and watch it happen. We'll be calling a tech out I suppose. Just had them out for burned out curing fan motor. The issues are piling up on this thing.

Now we are having issues with scratched ink/rubbed ink across prints on the left hand side of most everything we run, due to tension of the take up tension bar being too loose on the left end. So before it can even cure, it's rubbing up against the screws and other crap on the bottom of the...

Great. Really starting to hate this printer. One more reason to right there.

Anyone know how to change out the cutting blade on this printer? And what kind of blade? Research is turning up nada. Manual seems to have omitted this information. smh

I guess you missed the part where I said CAST is not needed.

Are you serious? Tape up a 12" x 60" Premasked line of vinyl lettering, in both air release and standard cut vinyl, and run a squeegee across each one real fast, and tell me which one has a million bubbles. I've been laying high performance vinyls long enough to know you have to spend a little...

What's worse is they hurry building those stadiums, to get BONUSES for early finish, then they start crumbling before they even open for use. Has happened TWICE! Allen and then McKinney.

I've done several of these style designs. You have to make all type faded and distressed, not just overlay some textures. You remove maybe half of what you create in the process. I've seen some cool tutorials on it too, don't have links but they''re out there.

Eh, it's nothing to do with technique. We have found using an air release is way quicker, especially when we often have to knock out 5-6 of these vans (with lots of measuring, they're stupid Nissan NV vans) in just a couple hours. Our installers do fine with standard cut vinyl, but these go...

Nope. Have to save as a 10.x file first. EDIT: Procedure is actually EXPORT as Flexi 10.x or lower.

I normally use 3M IJ40C for a fleet we do regularly. It's strictly white cut vinyl on a blue vehicle. The air release is great and makes the installs so quick. HOWEVER....we have had to remove some of the graphics now and the grey back adhesive SUCKS removing. So what is everyone's favorite...

That's a shame...letting one bad experience terminate your relationship. Hope all your customers don't do that. You didn't go in to detail, so I assume they're "screwing the pooch" was entirely their fault? I've had nothing but good luck with them, they have accommodated us every time. Even...

I use mostly 3651 for clear needs. It's a 5 year outdoor....with a laminate you should get fairly decent life out of it.

It's still there, when you hit Cut/Plot and screen opens up, tab with the blade and + sign

Oh god no....these are the tightwadiest customers around! Almost all real estate people are pains....always wanting cheap cheap cheap, and making 50 revisions to a stupid rider sign.

I have been having issues with cutting my prints (HP560, cut on Q54) intermittently. No matter how carefully I set it up, the cuts would be off just slightly. I was also having a lot of headstrikes while printing, and finally dropped the heat down several notches to keep my vinyl from buckling...

Not supposed to wet apply 5600. Or practically any standard reflective.