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Since most of my designs on glass are for 1) commercial windows that tend to be darker tinted, and 2) white vinyl text, I use a dark grey like most of the guys here. I've tried the "white" glass and black image for where white vinyl would be, but my customers have been more confused by that...

First thought, open file, resave and try to load again. Sometimes it seems something got corrupted in my files and a simple resave fixes the problem. You might try a different file format, like PDF, if that doesn't work. Definitely check transparencies. VW hates those for some reason.

I prefer to punch a grommet through the banner up.

This will also cut 040 aluminum.

Lexjet has some ready-to-go gallery wrap bars you can purchase. They're really simple and quick to use. They have 2 brands. I've personally used the Hahnemuhle brand, but they seem about the same. You just need to get the correct length and depth of the bars.

Have you seen the ultimate font, though? Comic Papyrus, A Complete Font Designed as a Mashup of Papyrus and Comic Sans

I wonder how long before the city gets upset with him inking up their decorative colors. I lived in central Europe for a couple years and they had big brass decorative covers in the city center. I bet the police would be on someone real quick if he started doing this there.

What is the vinyl thickness? This will determine which angle is best used.

At my old sign shop we would occasionally do "baseball" sponsor signs out of 10mm coroplast. Most of the time we'd order them precut, but sometimes we couldn't wait and would cut by hand.

I have a vs-540i, and I rarely use the media clamps unless necessary. But for >95% of my media, I don't get head strikes unless I've dropped a roll on its edge. Mostly I leave them off because it's not a problem most of the time and it's one more step to remove them when cutting off the media...

I've never used liquid laminate before. Is it as much of a pain as I think it would be?

I don't believe it's the tension. My practice has been to place the blank substrate under the rollers and lower them until it just grabs the substrate enough to roll through. I got better application, but still saw lots of stretch over the 8 feet. My guess is it could be the cheap vinyl we...

This sounds about what I'd expect. It's kinda like printing on clear or translucent. The darker the ink, the less you see the properties of the original film.

At some point, I'd agree that perfection has to submit to actually putting out product and making money. I know that someone somewhere will pay for cheap crap (e.g. McDonalds, Walmart, etc.). But I'd rather not be known as the bargain basement shop. I also have a tendency towards perfectionism...

From my experience, I stretch prints less laying them down by hand, although an increased chance of scratching it when using an old squeegee. On a 48x96 coro, for example, I'd get around a 3 inch stretch using our laminator whereas I'd be around maybe a 1/2" with a hand squeegee. It's definitely...

I've used Avery 2611, and it's a good material. I did not laminate it, but I was able to leave it for a week to dry and outgas. No problem installing except for my lack of experience dealing with large panel wall graphics solo and some pre-existing damage to the drywall near the ceiling that...

I'm working in a niche market right now, and haven't figured out a pattern yet. But there are waves of busy and dead. When I worked at a print shop in Dallas, we mostly worked with small local businesses, and our schedule generally followed the school year. When the kids were in school, we'd be...

I've seen those on the back of Sparkletts delivery trucks. No clue what it's called though.

I've managed to do over 100 pieces in one morning by hand with a 4" felt squeegee. You don't need a laminator for this unless you have no experience whatsoever. It seems like a waste of money to me to buy a piece of equipment you'll use once and then trash it. While a laminator makes it a bit...