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I used to do alot of art galleries. We are talking paragraphs of .5" characters with serifs. We used 3M SCPS2.
When all you use is a squeegee to install, only the high points of the textured paint make contact with the adhesive.
The key is to use a rivit brush with lots of pressure in an...
I'm guessing is has something to do with you color linearization. We need to get out output calibrated too. Gradients are tough and greys are even worse. The RIP plays a big roll. The last update we got to Wasatch smoothed out our gradients considerably.
File / import.
If its a raster file you will have to hand trace it in the computer. Rarely is an autotrace good enough.
If its vector your lucky. Now all you have to do is take a print designers mess and weld, trim, convert the thick outlines in to something useable. You will have to...
The least expensive design software is Corel Draw X4 at about $500. It will allow you to design vector (for plotters or routers) or raster (for printing)
It includes:
Draw - for vector drawing/designing
Photopaint - for raster pictures
Fontnavigater - for managing fonts
Fonts fonts and...
The swatch can be anything. Mine is 50% cyan. When you export it as an eps file the color name "CutContour" or "CutPath" is exported. When it sees that name, it will ignore the color and recognize it a Cut Path.
I do not know your skill level but there are 4 things that cause prints to fail and any one of them or a combonation of several can and will cause failures.
1. The vinyl need a clean non porous surface, free from wax and all contaminents.
2. If the prints are not cured properly, the...
There are so many variables in your question it's would be hard to answer.
How good is your existing client?
What do they expect, or would make them happy?
What are the potential clients likely to spend?
My goal would be to create a win win situation.
Static?
We turned our AC duct that was close to our printer off. When we print banners we have to spray water around our printer to create localized humidity.
Next coulple of steps would be to slow the head speed down and/or back off the values you are using for black. C100 M100 Y100 K100 is more than you need and most RIP put a limit in the 250% range anyway. You can back your black spot off to C60 M 30 Y00 K100 and still get a good rich black.
The stock product from these companies is calendard 160c printed with UV inks and the printer prints a UV liquid lam. It has a nice matte finish.
Your install looks good, but be prepared for complaints about your install failing. This material is not made for complex curves and your customer...
Where are you pre and post heater settings at? This can happen when the ink doesn't dry fast enough. The black area has 200 or 250% ink coverage and the lighter color has less. The weight of all that black pushes it into the other color.
Higher pre and post heat temps or slower printhead...
Also, if you screw up a tile and have to reprint one of them, save your rips for reprints. Just select the ripped panel and reprint. If didn't save your rips, you can go into the tile section and click on the individual tiles and turn them on and off.
1" overlap is recomended.
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