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Funny, this is actually true. We and a lot of other glaziers use the word "softer" loosely. It's easier to say softer than explain the properties of toughened glass. Some wont actually believe you or even take note of what you said. It's the only way to get our clients not scratching glass when...

So many glass experts... Use Grade - 0000 Steel Wool to clean glass instead of blades when possible. Isopropyl or methylated sprits (50/50 with water) what ever works for you, are good glass cleaners. Most glass you guys will come in contact with will be your generic "Annealed" or "Float...

It's how the ink droplets sit on the media. UV actually sit above the media while eco and latex penetrate into the media. because the UV sits on top of the media, it cannot give a glossy finish as it wont be a smooth surface vs eco & latex. And if your Flatbed prints are dull, then i'd be...

Glass & acrylic prints, Textured substrates, outdoor signage (3-5 yrs) or anything that requires edge to edge printing - UV Flatbed wins every tim IMO. vinyl prints, wall papers ect, I'd use a latex because i rather latex over eco solv.

You can't sub out RIP work. Your RIP - Raster Image Processor does exactly that. You load your image to the RIP, tell it what media is loaded in the printer, then the RIP will adjust the colours according to your ICC profiles and send it to your printer. Im not sure what RIP will suit you, I...

The better your computer is, the quicker you'll RIP. & A spectrophotometer.

as soon as they know, they usually don't bother.

In another state from his home state. Dont waste your time with them.

Scam. still in the country, nothing stopping from a phone call. Delete the email and forget about it.

Printer.. not RIP. My printer has the option to skip non printed areas.

Just open it and save it as a PDF. job done. Not much of a task..

Im not one to work at home. To many distractions ect. Home is for living. Workshop is for working. I especially wouldn't like my clients visiting my home. Having clients come to an office is a lit more appealing. Especially for the client.

No not true flatbeds. Vacuum table holds the material down.

Its only a CMYK machine. the 300 series is quite old now and the 365 is basically a 360 with newer technology inside the gantry. Like a revamped version of the 360. If you want Lm and Lc then you should be looking at the 1200 series machines. Personally i wouldn't even look at the 365, but...

bang for buck would be the AGFA. Oce aren't the cheapest, but really high quality machine. I would spend more though and get the 1200 series. I also prefer the monitor to be remote and not mounted to the machine.

From what you're basically saying you still need to calibrate your printers also. There really isnt any other way to "adjust" them other than making a new ICC profile and to do that you'll need a spectrophotometer and software. Flexi will have some calibrating stuff inside, but im not sure if it...

Ok, This is something photographers get wrong all the time and does really get annoying as a lot think they're "know it alls" Having your screen calibrated does not affect your printer output. However it does help make changes to your image when comparing to your screen in the right lighting...

Are your printer(s) calibrated/profiled properly? if not then job editor wont show the true colours. Mine shows whats printed. Canned profiles dont show properly, but some are close.

No exp with Datacolor, but i have used Xrites software. I like it, it does the job and creates pretty good profiles.