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Spot channels are usually White and Varnish. For example on my Oce Arizona, Spot1 is white and Spot2 is white or varnish depending what you have setup. In photoshop or illustrator, if your colour or colour fill channel is a Spot1 or Spot2 the RIP should recognise it and print what ever is...

I've done wall graphics with our UV flatbed. no lam. but this is done on actual wallpaper textured vinyl. (i forget the name of it) i have some in my house, no issues at all. been up well over a year.

Now i cannot remember exactly what it was, but my Oce tech deleted a system in the gantry. I have a feeling it was the degas, but i dont think it was. Try changing the filters, i never have. Im leaning towards that your head could be dead.

Ok so it's not a vacuum leak at the head. Your head could be damaged internally or just simply bubbles in your line. go to your "tools and utilities" and choose your channel and do a "short flush"

if you close the yellow tap, how long does it hold vacuum for?

Not sure why you're even printing in JPEG. You're probably not saving your PDFs correctly. Elaborate further? Print quality as in colour or sharpness. That's not the issue. IMO if you're printing photos, it should be in RBG and let the RIP do it's job and covert the colours so your printer...

We've got a dedicated RIP PC for Onyx. I do have Photoshop and Illustrator on it for quick edits instead of sending back and forth between computers. I also have all my colour managing software and tools on it as it's useless using 2 computers to calibrate 1 printer. I use hot folders between...

Sorry i didn't go though all the comments, Usually i would. What id do is request them to bring back the signs and inspect it yourself. Use a loop and you'll determine if they're stains or printed ink from the printer. You'll obviously see the dot pattern from the printer. If you can prove it's...

Yep, where did you find it? I still run 256 inks. Eventually going to go 257.

There use to be a buliten on the dgs.oce website but i can never seem to find it anymore. it would compare all the inks 255, 256, 257 & 258

The quality is not as bad as everyone makes it out to be. Seriously it's not like you view a banner millimetres away. Besides build a good profile for it and the colours will be great And the ink's are not designed for vinyl printing/wrapping. Banners, Wallpapers, blacklists ect. that's what...

IF you buy a proper RIP, you'll need the drivers which chinese printers a lot of the time use modified epson drivers which will only work with the RIPs supplies with the printer.

Id do that, but write on it "Stop Smoking or end up in there --->" Arrow pointing to hospital.

We mainly use a flatbed, A true Flatbed in that sense that i see you have Is more a long the lines of a hybrid. I know what you mean with the difference between UV inks and Latex. Im not sure how well latex will stick to other media, But the only real application i see for it would be...

Could couldn't agree more. Funny enough, most of my flatbed stuff is over 1m sq.

I see it's more of a space issue also, and you really don't want a flat bed out in the open. If you can find a local (country wide) supplier who can get you that size with full support, i'd go that route even if you do pay more.

IMO the size you want 24 x 36, i dont find it practice. What do you plan on printing? IMO again, the most practical size is 48" x 96" or 4' x 8' how ever you read it. Because you can throw a standard sheet on there and print it. Most things come in that size

Spectrophotometer - Being able to colour match prints instead of looking and guessing. Also calibrating your printer. D50 Lights - Going from generic fluorescent lights to D50 lights in the print room changed a lot of things. Being able to see true colours is a lot better when looking at print...

Im very hands on and technical person. I still wouldn't buy a Chinese machine. As already stated, When something goes wrong, and it will go wrong... Finding parts will be a task, You'll usually spend a while trying to find the part, then waiting it to arrive, or you'll opt to make the part...

You'll see why it cannot go wider. It'll need a much wider gantry, then it'll stick out to far and will cause a 6.5 inch gap between the bed and gantry plate (unsure if the actual term) that protects the head from the open. That would cause many issues with nozzles. That would require the table...