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GG should be fine, but use wisely as it will expand and foam-out from the bottom of the letter if you put too much on, while also making sure you put some weight on the letters while it cures to make sure it doesn't pop-out the letter while its expanding. i love using silicone for adhesive at...

rapid remover is not known for damaging paint or clearcoat, unlike GooGone which definitely does. $5 says it merely blemished the wax coating that hopefully won't inhibit the longevity of your decal. I'd just buff gently around the area with rapid remover & follow with isopropyl or soapy water...

phenolic-backed laminate is for interior-only, we use the metal backed just fine BUT it does get beatup outdoors after a half a decade or so.... as with any metallic/plated finish. secret-sauce is which contact adhesive you use that will withstand the elements. spoiler alert, its rubber-based...

only on bags boards and bartops. once encapsulated, you should be fine. however, i've never done it with CHEAP vinyl so i cannot confirm if there may be potential for shrinkage over time...but i would still doubt it.

i would merely laminate to protect from scratches while they spread the epoxy, as well as to keep the epoxy from breaking-down the ink along the way. beyond that, cast vinyl/lam is recommended but i'm sure you could "get away with" nearly anything. bonus points for zero-overlap, but that's just...

Chemetal has laminates nearly every finish you're looking for. we simply pre-bond the ~.040" laminates to .125" aluminum, with multiple layers of paint mask to protect the finish while routing the shapes and fabricating the returns. *edited: i do not own the rights to this image. I just...

overthinking this. print it in one-piece with a black outline. ....and then use a scissors or steady-handed xacto to cut it. sign guys used to freehand everything, but you have the benefit of printing your target cutline so use it. if you NEED a jig, cause you simply cannot do it by-hand, then...

its burned from heat&sunexposure. Being in only one spot, for now, might be due to additional heavy exposure from sidemirror light reflection. typically why they'll only rate metallic vinyls for exterior use around that amount of time, 2-3yrs.

gross. if you're trying to thermoform vinyl to textured block surface, then use a wall wrap material with a conformable overlaminate like 3M8624/8524 or similar. even a car wrap vinyl would have stood a chance, but definitely not economic/calendared vinyl. ...although you could have gotten...

edge seal strips are just clear laminate cut down to rolls, nothing fancy. vinyl strips will work too, you're just capping the "fingers" of trimmed perforated vinyl that will be the first things to start peeling-away over time.

lookup "retail gondola flag sign" and google has your back

SDS makes the best machines and bends the tightest angles/radius, but pricey as hell. We've been rocking an Accubend for a decade now and love it. The SDS can hit 3x tighter bends, but it doesn't matter much if you're just making your standard 8"+ channel letters. Feels like a little trickery...

rapid remover does pretty well at taking sharpie off laminate without burning the overlam.

if by transluscent, you mean clear with image printed on it, you would need the ability to print white. if white transluscent is good-enough, as your printer only uses CMYK, then go with any eco-solvent receptive transluscent white vinyl recommended by your supplier.

Grimco's Briteline Wrapcast

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idk, i'm just sayin' what i saw and i didn't get "sign grade" mdf and i'm sure most people don't when they're slapping sets together either. everyone knows that you don't expect much outta untreated mdf in wet environments.

oh i got ya, i just didn't know off the top of my head cause i just pickup as needed whatever they got :) looked it up: its Famowood Glazecoat

i just get whatever they have at HomeDepot. Its right next to the polyurethane tins in the spraypaint aisle (i've also heard people use polyurethane, but it may as well just be a clearcoat. The self-leveling bartop epoxy makes it nearly bulletproof.) the one set I never coated, got left...

that's all i've ever done. farmer's markets are always sellilng blank boards already built, and I sheet apply my vinyl and then bartop epoxy over the whole thing to seal it.