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your profile might be laying too much ink and its pooling/building-up in the perforations. If you can't get it to work by directly printing on the perf, then you could always try printing your image onto a cast optically clear, and laminating that onto your perforated vinyl. The red will still...

+1 textured wall issue. I assume by 3M prints you mean ij35/ij40? ij180 MIGHT be able to heat & mash to conform to the texture, if that's what is installed then try to hit it with high heat and a foam roller.... if its ij35/40, or any calendared vinyl, then I wouldn't bother trying to "make...

"decently priced"? ....buy a used machine from an industrial reseller or build yourself a new shop bot

paint mask stencil and screen print ink from local fabric/hobby store.

rapid remover is awesome, but its GREASY! a simple spray&wipe isn't enough to prep the surface, I always take it as a two-step process, with fresh rags, one "rough clean" to get all the debris and rapid remover off the surface, and then a fresh rag & isopropyl to polish the surface clean of...

+1 calendared vinyl shrinks, just the nature of the beast. Besides, if you use economy materials then expect to produce economy products. however, I've had ZERO issue with edge curl when using 8508/8509 on ij35. I've got dozens of "economy" MDO/coroplast signs out there with this product that...

lack of lamination is the root cause. Applying unlaminated prints without scuffing/smudging the ink is difficult, but I would start by using a transfer mask or at least the backingpaper/liner of the vinyl as a buffer between your squeegee and the print ....or start requesting laminated prints :)

ink blots? I must warn you, they all look like genitalia to me

thats called dithering. it is normal in printing. however, if you notice an obnoxious change in its quality then your profile or alignment isthe issue

thats called dithering. it is normal in printing. however, if you notice an obnoxious change in its quality then your profile or alignment is the issue

So with fairly decent amount of printing, you're using about 2 maintenance kits per month.... How many printheads have you replaced in the last year? different beasts, i'm sure, but woof....that's one heck of a pricetag on service parts.

how's the printing for transluscents? does the white transluce? does it have the ability to print overlapping color>white>color in one-go for proper illumination?

so optimizer on everything, but you still use adhesion promoter on certain substrates that are having issues? hot damn, that maintenance kit tho'. 3x the cost of my 26500, I'd imagine printheads are a bit more as well? still not talkin' me outta this machine anytime soon, fell in love with it...

$250 for a ribbon cable?!? Oboy. any sort of kink/fray in those things will cause issues. I can't imagine OEM being much different than a 3rd party, if not exactly identical. as long as the pins/spacing/guage of the lines are identical, then maybe your pins aren't making proper contact somehow?

so you print onto the belt? is that an issue that requires you to clean or replace regularly, or can you "cheat" by butting-in some cheap/thin poly/acrylic strips to run alongside & reuse.

niiiiiiice, I want one. so do you basically have to use the adhesive promoter on everything? Never saw them do it at the tradeshow, but is the removal/reinstall of white printhead fairly simple? Do you have to recalibrate everytime? any gremlins under the hood yet in terms of printability of...

+1 hydroscopic polycarb. its a curse really.

warping comes from rapid heating/cooling of routing, and the linear pressure of your bit pressing against the metal. as others have stated, a misting system is ideal for cutting aluminum BUT you also, at the very least, could add an air sprayer if you don't want to afford a coolant/oil system...

i think it would look cheap as one giant-panel, idk. dealer's choice here i guess. larger panel = easier layout for graphics. smaller panels = subtle touch-up, but more work.

i wouldn't bother with the "proper way" to do this, eraser wheel will grind up the painted finish, as would any scraper tools, and any of the "cover-up" paint remaining would make it look like as scuffed-up mess anyways. +1 to using ACM panels getting more bang-for-buck than elbow grease &...