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Unfortunately that seems to point to the pump not working. It sounds like the suction is working properly so the only thing left is the pump. If it's an after market one, a couple months back our supplier sent some that just plain didn't work. They looked the same and sounded like they were...

I would cap the head, bend one of the waste tubes and tape it so it doesn't unbend and then hook a syringe up to the other tube and pull. If you pull and get no resistance and just suck air, either the cap top is not lined up correctly (which is near impossible), the cap top is bad or defective...

The fuse doesn't stop ink from flowing. It stops the head from firing so if it is bad the maintenance station will still pull ink through with no problem. You most likely just need a new cap top. They wear out and stop making a proper seal with the head. Also, make sure to clean any ink build up...

Hey I thought I was the only tech in Colorado! Who do you work for?

If you pushed cleaning solution through the yellow channel and it came out the cyan channel, the head is dead. The channels are separated by a membrane so when you push solution through one and it comes out the other, that is broken and not repairable. Even with a broken membrane, you should...

The ethanol is probably too strong for the encoder strip and damaged it. You want to use 70% isopropyl because it is less harsh but still evaporates fairly quickly. It sounds like you will need to replace the strip. Take a good look at it. It should be shinny, clear with a tint to it. If it is...

By mis registered prints what do you mean? Do you have a picture?

That's an encoder issue for sure. You can tell by the offset printing on the right side of the image you provided. If you cleaned the encoder and it looks perfectly clean with no ink drops on it at all, then it is just damaged and needs to be replaced. What did you clean it with?

I agree for sure but the guys doing 1000's of square feet per day really do need the faster machines. For most small shops, quality and reliability is key.

Let us know your thoughts!

As far as heater settings go you usually want to be as high as possible without the material buckling. It takes a little trial and error but you should be able to dial it in with some effort. When you use the default profiles that come with Versaworks, it doesn't matter as much that the...

Yeah which profile are you using?

Common man. Buy the merchant membership.

QB also has the added benefit that there is a high chance your accountant prefers it.

If you are setup CMYK x 2 then the cyan channels are connected and so when one side has an issue, it affects the other side as well. If the dampers didn't fix the issue, the connector that they connect to could be failing. I would change those along with the o-ring that seals the connector with...

I haven't done this procedure on that model but usually you need to install the firmware first and then load the parameters you pulled form the old board 2nd. Check out Roland's support page for the files needed. You should be able to down load them along with a PDF that walks you through it.

Move to where you want to set it using the arrow keys and hit enter.

It's going to be hard to find since Mimaki stopped releasing that Firmware a long time ago so the only people who will have it is techs who downloaded it before then. Also, technically, if they work for a dealer, it violates the non-disclosure agreement they sign with Mimaki. If you don't find...

The cut color has to be a spot color named, "CutContour" capital C's no spaces otherwise Versa can't see it. If you did it correctly, when you open the layout in Versa, you will see little red lines moving along the cut line which people call the marching ants.

On a technical level the Mimaki is the better machine. It's essentially one generation of technology newer which means it's faster and has slightly better quality. But as stated above, if you have $8000 to spend, you could get a brand new Mimaki CJV150 for only a few thousand more which should...