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put my hands on both, and went with the CWT. they're both great machines, but CWT cut us a way better deal at the sign show. +1 at how I cannot believe we've never had such a tool up until now. indispensable doesn't even begin to explain how much it has helped us. edited: o man, no brainer...

grinding-down the existing name sounds like you're eating most of that in labor of install. i mean, Gemini makes great lettering BUT, as stated above, they are pretty pricey for a "temporary"sign. ....a 1/2" PVC "HotDog" with vinyl lettering mounted right over the top of the existing letters...

tight fit, depending on your acrylic. detail shows that particular extrusion has only a .156" channel to slide your acrylic into. acrylic gets hot, wants to expand, but with nowhere to go uniformly then it will just squeeze itself wherever it can. Warm/cool/repeat, and you'll have wavy panels.

acrobat pro also has an option to convert text to outlines. many youtube vids available.

no better tool on glass, than a sharp knife. its all about your process, however. don't just cut the material, you should be slightly tugging on the vinyl in the opposite direction that you're cutting.

direct/screen print to panels, coro/foamcore, seems like the best option here AND least expensive. adhesive-backed anything will come with a price. otherwise, spray mounting has always been the easiest for me to mount patters, when needed. Roll-on options would be more time consuming.

+1 remove trim of ones that won't fit, and re-trim "looser". however, this only works if your acrylic survives the demo AND you know for certain that they're still cut to the right size. trim cap as a metallic layer sandwich'd between the plastic, it won't really stretch enough to save you...

if it was for a client, I would inform them of the extra costs involved in dis/re-assembly. it will save your a lot of effort during application, but body work is body work. Spoiler alert. I have never done this. MY trucks and other wraps for economically/timeline-minded clients, however...

had the same issue and just cleaned the contacts and reseated the printhead a couple of times and it finally took hold. has happened to my ink cartridge too, just re-seated it a couple of times, and it was back up and running.

I've done it, and its no big deal. ...and its pretty sweet. if your base vinyl is pulling up while shifting your overlay around, then your issue lies within that initial base-vinyl application. just make sure to post heat and add some love to the perimeter of the overlap'd vinyl, as your...

my money is on Gerber edge printed onto clear. the gerber edge, along with vinyl plotters from the 80's, are the only reason to use the material with perforated margins.

nothing is temporary at that scale, you're bound to be doing some damage to the wall, even with tape alone. HUGE fan of VHB tape & 100% silicone adhesive combo. don't hold back, frame the panels with VHB tape with some strips in the center every couple of feet to keep the panels...

try simply peeling the masking off after rapidremover has 30sec'ish to soak. you might catch a break

I have a 5gallon jug of RapicTac, cheaper/quantity, but rarely use it since Dawn+Water is just fine. And yes, I can install a 4x8 sheet of translucent vinyl dry, but I would prefer not to risk ruining the material when I want to pick up the pace.

rapidRemover has been my go-to for years for this kind of situation. we used to throw away large chunks of acrylic sheets that the paper masking had basically welded itself to the acrylic, and was impossible to peel it off with the above suggestions. Years later, I randomly decided to try...

if vacuum hold isn't enough for some parts, i'll just zip deck screws & clamps down into the table to supplement.... pausing the router & movinig/adding hold downs as necessary. OR I mask the sheet with a couple layers of high tack transfer tape/paint mask, lightly spray mount to table (3M 77...

MDF is fine, and preferable, as it is cheap & disposable. Mister fluid may swell MDF over time, but you should be resurfacing your table every so often anyways, which will clear it up....also make sure to surface the MDF on both sides prior to final install. The sheets are coated/sealed on...

threaded studs, epoxy'd into the acrylic. holes through PVC where letter/stud aligns, stud goes through PVC and into wall/panel you are mounting.

why not stick with something you know, rather than risk expensive materials/processes on a sign you're making for the first time? printed woodgrain background on MDO/aluminum pan, with painted dimensional lettering stud mounted to the face, would save your client a buttload of $$$.

if you want to run a print from a file of 100Yellow, turn ICC Profiles Off. Same goes for any CMYK value you will to retain on the fly, or simply create spot colors that your profiles won't adjust in the RIP.