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+1 above post. buy track, glue it to polycarbonate. easier to do than trim capping. Most sign suppliers stock the parts necessary.

aye, we switched from solvent to latex a few years back. biggest upsell at the time was the fact it only emits water vapor, and the print is completely dry once it comes off the printer, no "outgassing" necessary before lamination. our office used to get "smoked-out" by solvent smell/fumes...

agreed. printing clear is "lack luster" when you don't have ability to print a white base color but hopefully that's something you've already considered before deciding a clear print was the way to tackle the restoration. However, I'm a huge fan of second-surface when it comes to glass...

I would go with HP Latex, if possible. Printer plus software will still keep you in the <$20k range. And service on these machines is just as easy as your desktop printer.

that test print doesn't look clear at all. lol if you're nozzles aren't firing at 95%+, you're screwed. yours are at like 30% on the K channel. if that is how your test print looks at the start of the day/print, you shouldn't even try printing. clean and/or replace printhead if your test...

I assume by backglass, you mean the scoreboard section of the pinball machine? you should be fine. still, you definitely left some $$$ on the table, i'd say. hope they providing beer & pizza at least :) Even as a cash job, I'd be printing & supplying at that price. you'll have at least...

culprit is in the test print. missing nozzles = bad print. try soaking the head overnight and see if you regain any, otherwise you may be looking at a printhead replacement.

big fan of overlapping, even if only 1/8", for longevity. .....I would just tile it in a better spot. 4' vinyl tile across the middle and then add top&bottom 1' pieces. your overlap would then be away from the main elements, and won't be so noticeable.

aye, looks too uniform to be squeegee scratches. more like the sheet cutting blade on a printer/plotter dragging across the surface, most likely due to vinyl lifting up during operation.

nice selection available from Solar Graphics, and right in your neighborhood. www.coloredfilms.com

joe diaz. he's the man

I HATE overlapping lines, especially on small copy. Agreed it's a preference thing, but my preference would be to avoid it by adding your "S" and additional copy to the radial lines, install as one piece, and then overlay white vinyl for your "S" & text.

I'm a huge fan of boosting gold vinyl's longevity by adding a cast gloss/luster overlaminate. cast obv. best i've found spec's 5year outdoor, RTape VinylEFX being one. There's some expensive ones out there too that include real gold leaf, which I think would be pretty sweet & resist fading...

saw it in action at the ISA show, neat stuff. slides around on the panel without sticking, until you apply pressure. however, I've always been one to wait a year before getting excited about any "new" media. let others do the beta testing for me. I'm still printing/wrapping with Arlon...

+1 kgirl +1 johnnybest (giggidy giggidy) we put seams at top of letters and bottom of centers. least visible spot the better, assuming you're looking-up at it when installed. overthinking it if you're assumng water freezing in seam & busting it apart. glue it right, with a bridge over the...

maybe your laminate is old & yellowing? i've had MacTac laminates turn my prints blue, which I always assumed was their UV inhibitors.

Calendared overlam is most likely your issue. i use orajet 3850 all the time. However, anything I print&cut or I always laminate with a cast material. 3850 may be calendared, but cast overlam will make it better. if you want the best option, go cast material as your base, with cast overlam...

pending details of printer, and pictures as reference.... sounds like misalignment of your yellow.

luckily, I've wrapped nothing but new cars the past few years but, in the past, I've always been a fan of bridging crappy areas with reflective vinyl, and then wrapping over the top of it.

neon burning-out? laughable. take a walk down Freemont St. in Las Vegas, and I'd bet over half of the neon there is 30+yrs old. neon mainly has issues with cold weather. the "service" most people incur, aside from the obvious broken tube, involves removing the tube & rolling it around until...