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wow, that pouncer sounds like an angry typewriter. still pretty cool though, we still have our old pouncing hand-tools but haven't used them in ages, as I just get clever with installs using drawn paper patterns.

chip clearing might the issue & your feeds & speeds seem a bit high to begin with. maybe start with a relief-pass just outside of your final cut path & dial-down the speeds ~50%. I usually run most materials at about 120-150ipm.

if welding/thru-bolt isn't an option, what about screws? 1/8" alum backer, with 2" angle welded to the back to "sit" on top of the beam. Screw into beam and make sure you've sealed any penetrations to avoid rusting over time. if hell bent on not penetrating the beam whatsoever, then get some...

A lot of sign/engraving shops in your area that do ADA signage. myself included :) if you have already produced sign panels and need to add braille, then raster braille from an engraving shop might be your best-looking solution as they can just drill/drop glass beads into place whereas...

that's Canada for ya, eh? so what do they call Inchworms up there? However, many U.S. cities I've done work in, require it. If they don't require it, it usually requires an electrical sign inspection (and a fee) that we have seen waved many times due to UL label. Still, depending on permit...

yup! at that point its a matter if anyone wants to make a stink about it, and whether or not the permit for the sign actually hinges on UL listing. and for the nay-say'ers, I agree that UL feels like its a scam....in a sense. No one likes another middle-man in the process, BUT it sets a...

i've installed the exact same sign type, and it was only meant to be up a few months. Two years later, it still is there because construction still hasn't finished. installed 36" below grade, with about 2' of gravel&sand at the base. the rest is soil/sod we packed back on top. ready to pull...

UL parts don't necessarily mean UL assembled product, and modifying a sign in the field voids the UL listing of the product, and therefore may void the permit for the sign if it is a requirement. "UL Marks may only be applied at manufacturing facilities authorized by UL. Any violations should...

printhead replacement should be your last resort. try soaking the head overnight. I'm uncertain how to do it for other models, but for my Jv3, you set a nozzle wash for 99min, and then unplug the machine from the wall. Plug machine back in the next day, run another nozzle wash (for good...

UV cured binder jetting paired with CMYK ink & water soluble PVA support structure. pretty neat! no need for powder or resin tanks

that'd be interesting, but I have yet to see any. all current LED standoff setups I've seen are based on a 12v power supply, which would be hard to obtain via a ~2v watch-battery, and I'm sure a string of them to generate 12v would become as bulky as a larger battery anyways. is there a place...

you also may be getting bubbles down the channels with your laminator because you're using too much pressure and/or running it with the flutes in an opposing-direction. Ideally, you'd want the flutes to run perpendicular with the roller so that air continues down the line and out the back of...

upsell them on polycarbonate (lexan/makrolon). 2x8 is small by comparison to where I would say its absolutely necessary to upgrade acrylic to polycarb, but indestructable is always a great quality for sign mfg./warranty. besides, i bet that face has a lot of wiggle-room inside that cabinet...

+1 here. I've been applying graphics for 20+ years now, and still have issues trying to flop a 48" chunk of transfer tape by hand. Roll dispenser/holder should be the standard for your shop if you intend to do a lot of transfer tape application. however, if you DO intend to do this by-hand...

DPF8000 will stick great, if surface is flat, but it won't conform to texture. apply with a transfer mask, like you would any other vinyl.

I wonder if you could build something cool out of all that extra material, like an airplane. or is that too ridiculous? (link)

before I had a laminator, I would just use aerosol or roll-on liquid lam for perf. edited for more info: nay-say'rs will say that the perf holes will fill with water/debris, and will be difficult to see-thru, which is true. which is why an optically-clear overlam, via laminator or skill'd...

does it have to be the cheap metal ones? Plasticade mades a nice white formed HDPE plastic one.

yeah, could be a can o' worms. If the heads took a dump at once, there may be other issues that require service as well, aside from the 8-12hrs you'll spend replacing the heads in the first place (i could do it in <6hr, no big deal). If you're feelin' froggy, and it's truly a FREE machine...

noted for the recommendation for SCIGRIP Weld-On 3, is intended to be used for bonding Jewelite to Acrylic. If you're using polycarbonate, however, SCIGRIP Weld-On 58 is a two-part Urethane epoxy that will do the trick.