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The tech manual tells you to empty the machine of ink before changing the dampers but that is a big waste of ink. Instead I do the whole procedure with the ink still in the machine. The ink lines for each color are connected with a y connector so when you take the first one off it drips slightly...

Normally you want to change all of the dampers at least every 2 years. Most manufacturers recommend every year. If yours have never been changed I would change them all. It's not hard to change them but the 1204 is one of the harder machine s to get to them. The little cover that covers the...

You can't swap the boards but you can try and repair the components. The board itself is connected to the nozzle firing mechanisms so you would have to be able to reconnect all 360 tiny little connections which just isn't possible by hand. The only thing you can do is repair any blown components...

Start with changing the dampers. Dampers keep ink flowing to the head and when they fail they do exactly what you describe.

Print them. Cutting will be way too labor intensive to be profitable. Eco-Sol inks are made for outdoor use and you can expect to get at least 3 years durability especially if it's only intermittent sun exposure even without laminate.

The ones on Mimaki's site are universal and should load fine in Flexi. It just says Rasterlink on the page because that is their bundled RIP but the files themselves are plain old icc files.

Yeah alignments have nothing to do with ink flow so if black isn't firing it's not alignments. It's most likely clogged or has and air leak in the lines above the print head. I would take the covers off and check the line. Most likely it just needs to be refilled.

I would add the Mimaki CGFX2 series to this list as they are work horses. The Summas are definitely top of the line though.

PSA: Also for future post seers, the amount the blade sticks out of the blade holder is a set position. Every time a new blade is installed it should be installed the same way and should not vary. The user manual for your cutter will tell you exactly how to install it properly. Force should...

Unfortunately that looks like head damage to me. Whenever the test print looks fine but the patterns that require smaller dots print fuzzy like in your examples, it usually means the head is fried electronically. You can try to clean the cables and terminals and sometimes that will help but...

I know I am a little late to the party but the issue is most likely that you installed Rasterlink from the CD. The CD version has known issues and yet Mimaki still sends them out and doesn't even give you a little letter saying not to use it. They also send you the old drivers and profiles so...

Who's paying you for the job? That's who you invoice.

+1 for harbor freight. Also, next time you ship a printer have them put a coupe 2x4s on each end so the casters are elevated. hat way they don't pop off in shipping.

That should be it. If the issue is still happening it has to have something to do with the hardware but it's hard to tell what.

Whenever you use a non-graphtec software it will do this. When you did the factory reset, you changed the communication setting to GP-GL which is a Graphtec proprietary language but since you don't use a Graphtec software it needs to be set to HP-GL which is a more universal language that...

You should be able to just set the origin of the blade to anywhere around the first crop mark and then send the job.

OEM parts are just expensive in America. The way it works is Epson manufactures most of the parts for Mimaki, Roland and Mutoh which is the first time they get sold. Then Mimaki, Roland and Mutoh Japan sells the parts again to their American counterparts. Then the American versions of Mimaki...

Yes cracked manifolds are definitely a thing. You just have to take the dampers off and get a bright flashlight and look at each nipple on the manifold. You can also put your finger on the top and move it back and forth. If it's broken it will not take very much force to wiggle that part. If it...

I can totally see an expired cartridge error causing this issue. Didn't even think of that!

I would start by making sure your Rasterlink software is up to date and also the USB driver. Those two things get updated regularly and if they get out of date can conflict with each other.