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We got both kinds...Country and Western.

Does it have to be in the same exact spot? Why not move it over a couple feet? The brick will probably come down easy with a sledge and then leave the pad. Or I've been wanting to try one of those mini excavators, add the rental cost and a days labor.

Yea....not feeling it. Good job and what the customer wanted but turns my stomach.

I wouldn't say that was a good job. The seam isn't done well and is that white showing through on the panel behind it? And the wrinkles look like they were worse and that's as good as they will get. Whether it's an acceptable job is another question. Some clients prefer price over perfection and...

Yes, you can adjust the halftone and lines per inch. Usually it's done to smooth out the gradients, but I think I did some where I increased the dots. The lower the LPI the grainer it gets. Not sure if it will work but it's worth a try. I attached pics of where it is. The only other way I know...

I've never done it but you may get that effect by changing the halftone LPI

If it's just a smooth gradient we do them all the time with Gerber Composer. When you use the "Assign Colors" box "Gradient" is one of the options. You may have to play with to get the exact same fade. If it's a "Dot" pattern made where you actually see small circles of color you have more work...

Had to look up Panatrim, that's a nice looking system. Not sure what you're asking though. I would think multiple panels would have a backer on the seam though

I agree, we use the lexel/tape combo often

The other letters are 3/4" thick laser cut? How are they attached? I hate drilling a bunch of holes in vinyl, but if that's what was done on the rest of them...

I distinctly remember two jobs we did right after we got the Gerber in '80/81. One was for the freelance installers that were doing the first TV cable lines that were warehoused next to us. Each had to have a magnet sign for their truck and they would order them as they were hired, ended up...

Started working for a signpainter in high school, went to Butera Sign School in the early 70s. Lot of sweat and redos to get it right back then. Still comes in handy to be able to use a brush and essential for goldleafing. I remember when the Gerber Signmaker came along I decided to learn how to...

Permit, really? Do they even have a category for a sign like that? Are they going to want an engineers stamp for 100mph winds :rolleyes:. You should be able to draw and spec that in about 10-15 minutes.

I like Colorcrests approach. "Here's the problem is there anything I can do to help you." If after that he falls back into his inconsiderate ways you can charge him, which may piss him off and cost you his business.

I've traded in dead obsolete printers, sometimes they just want the motherboard. But the last few I've bought were used/refubs so no trade ins. I have sold them on craigslist/ebay.

very nice

Yep, "old fashioned" reverse cut etch/dusted vinyl, or you could go real old school and actually etch the glass :roflmao:

yes

We sheet with vinyl when possible...when not we scuff (very important with ACM) and spray with auto paint/acrylic poly.

Why do we bother...you got the correct answers here, you can buy some cheap equipment which may or may not work for you or the best advice, buy it wholesale till you've ramped up the business.