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Pretty safe to assume it’ll handle the profiling on rigid substrates easily or a lot of flatbed guys would be upset. have you tried just using a different profile if you don’t want to create one?

Where in the UK are you/who did you buy your equipment from? We have a decent relationship with pretty much all the big brands in the UK so I can definitely try help you find some potential tech support. That and can probably point you in a few directions for some media suppliers if you wanna...

Glass looks good. Can get a nice print underneath too sometimes but you use a new blade and it’ll be dull in about a minute

Yeah pretty much any work surface/table should probably be covered in self healing mats/sheets. A new mat is cheaper than a new table!

I might be way off here as I don’t have a flatbed, but 8 passes for Coro sounds a bit overkill - might just be an issue of not utilising the higher print speeds? Is there any reason you’re not sticking with vanguard? The 300D-HS seems to have the speeds you’re after? Also with the option of...

As the old saying goes, jack of all trades, master of none. Seems like a LOT of work for someone to be responsible for without getting top dolla. As Andy D said, he can definitely do all that but doing all of that in one day, every day is crazy. I bet he can sing songs about little horses too...

It’s a free bit software (providing you bought the machine). And it shows. 10 mins of using onyx for the Colorado and I’d decided to switch the mimaki over already. obviously now I compare it to a third party RIP that *has* to be good but onyx is just a world ahead. Main things I didn’t like...

I hate rasterlink with a fiery passion. It does what it needs to do but it looks like it was made in 1990 and isn’t user friendly at all. It’s a shame as rasterlink 5 was actually pretty good. Visually a lot easier to sort everything out too. We switched our mimaki to onyx and life is much...

“Responsibilities include but not limited to entire end to end production from design to installation with a little bit of management and pricing”. What skills are you more interested in? In most workplaces you’ve listed at least three different jobs here. Kudos to the guy that’s designing...

Yeah pretty clearly a decent head strike or two on the magenta/yellow and god knows what’s wrong with the black. just change all your future designs to only using cyan and you’re all good.

If we ever get a flatbed it’ll likely be an Arizona due to our relationship with canon; I can guarantee you’ll find quicker machines for the same price point but the service we get from canon generally is immaculate. If we put a call In for the Colorado In the morning there’s an engineer there...

We ran a tonne of the canon 75gsm through or colourwave when we had it. Pretty sure there’s a lot crappier media’s about though. Biggest worry would be running it through your Colorado and getting it cured if it’s uncoated

Again. It’s mostly covid related stuff, quite a lot of it is government/health service stuff so I guess they password protect it in order to stop anyone further down the line changing it before it gets to us. Even with print enabled on the PDF our rip/press software doesn’t like the files at...

He mentioned it was cling. We get in clear and white cling no problem

Have tried that but if you open it in anything Adobe based and print to PDF it retains the security. What are you opening the PDF’s in?

So recently we’ve been getting a lot of PDF’s with mostly covid related stuff that has security. Mostly allowing printing but no manipulation at all and 9 times out of ten they don’t have bleeds or need something altered. The current fix is open on the Mac using preview, print, choose size...

Try using RGB maybe? We have a customer that always sends in crappy looking PDF’s and as a workaround I’ve always just opened them in illy, changed to RGB, saved it and printed them. As far as I am aware the Lc and Lm don’t add gamut so that won’t be the difference. Sounds more like a...

Does it need to be one part? If you’re feeling lazy just reverse print on the clear and then print on the white. Throw the clear up then the white on top. Voila. Does mean you’re using 2x the material though but you’ll save years in print times lol

On a realistic note, charge as much as they will pay that is within reason. for jobs like this that say they’ll order “x” per month, it may be worth charging more initially then offering bulk discounts if they actually live up to their numbers.

Yeah I did read about thickness based pricing in the 2021 sign shop owners manual.