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If you're talking just raw unpainted galv. And it's clean and smooth, vinyl sticks well. We used to do a ton on galvanized until we switched to aluminum composite. Degreasing is the key.
2 coats Benjamin Moore Fresh Start primer , followed by Exterior Latex of your choice (I prefer matte). Ronan Aqua Leaf for a very nice "Gold" paint (but be prepared for at least 3 coats)
If it's being mounted against a wall, I would consider folding a pan or tray out of alupanel/dibond. It looks good and is pretty lightweight. Make the returns as thick as you'd like.
One of the great pleasures for me, as a lefty, is to sit at a circular dining table and use the 'wrong' side plate or wine glass, forcing everyone else around the table to do the same! As a lefty, you know it's the little things...
My inclination would be to ask him politely how he arrived at the figure concerned? Why does he think its worth the money? It might give you an an idea if it's possible to negotiate?
For the most part, we print on paper and then spray-mount to either corrugated cardboard sheets (from material wrappings) or to scrap coroplast. Having a rigid template makes life a whole lot easier on site. Mind you, it's always windy on the Prairies! :smile:
If you're just trying to line up two or more colors of vinyl, you don't need any fancy registration marks. Just pop a couple or four small squares or circles on your page just outside of the main image area, and select them with each color when you cut. Then it's just a case of lining up the...
I believe this is to do with the crowning of the rollers (on decent laminators, the rollers are slightly thicker in the middle) which puts a slight twist on things.
My solution on long narrow prints is to start in the middle. Forget taping down, just clamp down the rollers to hold the print and...
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