I want to thank all the members that have upgraded your accounts. I truly appreciate your support of the site monetarily. Supporting the site keeps this site up and running as a lot of work daily goes on behind the scenes.
Click to Support Signs101 ...
It's hot around ovens and if it was a permanent sign I'd say use aluminum.
Not just for safety but also cleanliness, it's gets real dirty greasy around cooking.
But since it's temp I'd be Ok with a banner but I'd hang it a little higher
Digging holes in New England 40 years and it's hardly ever easy, except near the beach or old river bottom. Tried one/two man gas augers but they just want to break your wrist when they hang up. The only sure method is a tow behind auger, but need a bogl job for those. We do have a job right now...
I agree about knowing the competitions price. Lots of people say it doesn't matter what competitors charge you have to set your own prices. Which is true to an extent. But knowing the market is important. You may be leaving money on the table with some products, or wasting your time trying to...
I agree, it's part art and part science. I think the art part is more about pushing the limits ala Si Allen's "The highest price you can say without laughing" and the science part is knowing how low you can go before it's a loser.
I've seen wall signs built that flimsy but once they are fastened to the wall they are Ok. Still wouldn't accept that cabinet, multiple issues besides the build.
We also used to do bike tanks that were then cleared, worked fine. I did do one boat transom with sign gold that was over varnish and then got more coats over the whole thing. No issues that I know of.
Use cut cast translucent vinyl whenever possible. When it has to be printed only the best cast vinyl & laminate. I wonder if reverse on clear substrate would hold up better?
This site uses cookies to help personalise content, tailor your experience and to keep you logged in if you register.
By continuing to use this site, you are consenting to our use of cookies.