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It really does look a lot better with the wall touched up, but Rick is right about the centers of the letters. And as I mentioned the white-space between the Loaves & Leaves is excessive. Those two components would have nested really nice if the placement was more like the banner.

The messy looking background can be fixed, but the great big gap between the main copy and the graphic are forever.

I agree with Bob, the only portion of this particular image I might need to use vector tracing for is the runner. On a real job i would just draw it.The rest of the design is a basic quick layout. I only put up the trace result in the first place because of Player asking.

As I said in my post above I am no expert, and I'm pretty sure there are many methods of reproducing logo designs I'm unaware of. I just converted the design to greyscale at 300 dpi, then fiddled with the contrast, darkness and intensity till the components are isolated from each other enough to...

Wow! I didn't want that attachment to be that enormous. Sorry

This is what I got in a few minutes using coreldraw x8. I did convert the png file to a greyscale bitmap, then after adjusting the contrast I converted to black and white before tracing. I wasn't saying that Graphic Tracer won't do a better job, and maybe get results quicker, I just think...

As a longtime user of Coreldraw, currently version x8, I must say I would have to "tweek" the controls quite a bit to get it to trace those vectors that inaccurately.

The signs I was referring to were all handpainted with OneShot. But I have had good success with cast avery films lasting 12-15 years.

"Signmakers that don't use Ronan or One Shot or Chromatic?" Not sure what that was supposed to mean, Unclebun, but I thought we we talking about painting a substrate so vinyl can be applied. I use 1shot and Chromatic for lettering but I don't think either are a good choice to coat out a 4x8.

Since the "70's we have used good quality marine enamel with a "dash" of acrylic automotive paint hardener added for extra gloss and durability. Prime first, then 2 coats rolled on with a smooth foam roller. I've had MDO signs last over 20 years using this method.

That particular typeface looks a little strange with the paint drip effect heading in at 45% angles. I guess the designer forgot to pay the gravity bill that month.

We use Rapid Remover also, but I'm not sure it is non-toxic as stated above. I sure find my eyes burning from it if we have to use it in the shop in any quantity. Also depending on the substrate I would be careful with the Iso Alcohol. On polycarbonate sheets it can be a little crazy.

I believe to actually own a design, the percentage it needs to be changed is 100%.

Put a strip of sandblast stencil film on there. That's a trick I learned in Roberts Creek 20 years ago.

We stopped buying the nylon or teflon strips 20 years ago. We just cut an appropriate sized strip of sandblast stencil an use that. Works really great on our Ioline plotter and our sp300.

Here's our hours of operation posted on the front door.

I don't know, could be legit....

Remember the Lith sisters? Amber and Ruby?

I think if you are going for almost unreadable, I think you nailed it!

Are you referring to painting a shadow on a letter that doesn't quite touch? We used to call that an "Away-shade" when I was first apprenticing hand lettering.