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Customer wants his logo put on the doors of his Humvee. only problem is the doors are covered in some kind of "canvas" which seems to have been painted black but the "fabric" texture is still quite prominent so I don't think vinyl is going to work. What kind of paint would you suggest for...

The way I do it, for 1 sided signs, is to laminate "backer boards" of HDU to the back of the sign with Gorilla Glue(polyurethane). I wet the back of the board, run strips of GG on it and screw it to the back of the sign, only about 3/4"" in or so is sufficient. I countersink the heads just...

I have a couple spots of "U-Line" #623 sandblast stencil lifting off some HDU. I had taken it to the local monument company for blasting and the blaster-guy didn't catch it in time before it was "GrainFraimed" under the letter. Now I have to either carve it down, or built the place back up with...

Due to the thinness of 6mm ACM, I'm thinking of just going with 12 or 19mm PVC. I could glue PVC standoffs tot he back, screw in some stainless screws and use those as studs. drill holes in the wall [stucco], fill holes with silicone and push in the studs. What do you think?

stucco

Is this the correct Lexel? https://www.lowes.com/pd/Lexel-10-5-fl-oz-Clear-Paintable-Solvent-Caulk/4714985

What is the best way to attach a 4x5 shape, cut out of 6mm ACM, onto an outside wall without fasteners showing on the front? If there is a way. Thanks

Had a large job done in "high performance" 751 which faded, cracked all over within 18 months and Oracal would not make it right. I use 3M now.

Trying to cut some large pieces of sandblast stencil and the stuff is, of course, much heavier than vinyl. Is there a way to reset the "rapids" on this cutter so that, between cuts, the thing doesn't lose registration from all the snatching when the grit shaft shoots it back and forth? Tech...

I rolled some latex primer (Zinser 1 2 3) on some slightly rough PT timbers and need to take it off. What is the best/easiest/fastest paint stripper for this? Is there something that can be applied and "hosed off"? It was just put on Saturday, thanks!

For routing on the CNC, Duna is fine. But, from my experience, it is hard to sandblast. The jobs I have upcoming are sandblasted.

I've used several brands over the years; Signfoam, Precision Board, Evergreen, Duna, DesignBoard and maybe a couple others. The best bang for my buck was DesignBoard. I've made quite a few signs with it, many have been out in the weather for quite a few years, and never had any problems. But...

Never mind, I just now got a call and a PO#, I got the job. But I wasn't about to hand over the production files if I didn't. Thanks for the feedback. :) This is one of the 4 old signs...

If you designed and built a detailed dimensional sign for a municipality, and there are still three other signs just like it which they want it to match, then 10 years later the sign gets destroyed and the client asks you to quote on building another but it is going to be quoted by two other...

Was it harder to blast than, say cedar or redwood and get any depth to it?

I have a customer who wants me to sandblast some kind of pattern/mold whatever, that he can press into beach sand to imprint words. I tried to talk him into going with CNC routed but he thinks he wants sandblasted and he wants it done in Extira. Has anyone ever blasted this stuff before? Thanks

How do you keep the letters from moving while you lay the transfer tape?

Planning to install some router-cut "Dibond" letters to a sheetrock wall(as in the photo) using 3M double-faced tape. How would you prepare your pattern to install these? Thanks

And I'm going to need to borrow a bigger bandsaw, than the one I have, to cut it out with.

For anyone who has built a timber-frame sign structure; If you made this frame out of 8''x8'' pressure treated pine timbers, what kind of joints would you use? Lap joints? Also, the arch will need to be from laminated 8x8's. Have you ever used Gorilla Glue to laminate PT wood? What about West...