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I've used the Glass Adhere. It's good stuff.

And here I thought the Tervis Tumblers were pricey.

No clue what the inkset is for that machine, but a white primer would make the printed design opaque.

I'd almost think your best bet would be painting directly onto the wall.

The appropriate number of studs on the back would hold a solid piece of 1/4". I still think your initial idea is best, though.

Your plan is the best option in my opinion- depending on how much money they want to spend. You could always buy a piece of 1/4" brushed.

If you go with the new ink set, your best bet will be to buy a spectrophotometer and build new profiles. Otherwise, you're going to waste a lot of time tweaking every time you reprint something.

Are you sure you're exporting to the printer's preferred version of Illustrator (i.e., CS whatever)? I did a quick test and it opened fine in Illustrator as long as the correct version was exported.

Looks like a Microgramma Bold.

More than likely, the adhesive remover caused oxidization. You'd have to remove it. There are cleaner for kitchen appliances and the like that have stainless panels on them that are meant to do just that. That's about the only solution I could think of. Just make sure it's built into the cost...

Couldn't say, as I've never personally used it. I do know it exists, though. Google returns quite a few suppliers.

There actually are clear PVC sheets available.

I'd say that's exactly why. You might be able to hit that color through trial and error, or do it the right way and create a media profile on your printer.

This^^^ A primer coat would be (basically) doubling the amount of ink you put down. Your best option really is to either leave an unprinted area on the clear media, or cut holes in opaque media. As far as what to use, I am a big fan of the Glass Adhere material. Sticks well, leaves no residue...

I went ahead and upgraded on one of my personal laptops and everything went smoothly. And, the Win 10 works just fine. I know there are some programs that won't play nice with it, but I haven't run into them yet. Everything I've been using on said laptop (including Corel, Adobe, and even...

Why would you use translucent vinyl on something that's not lighted and isn't white? The color of the substrate where the vinyl is applied is going to alter the color immediately.

My first thought is: the material is sticking to the printer somehow (i.e., there's something the magnet is attracted to). There could be a support piece under the finned area that's made of steel that the material is being "held" by. Just a thought. I'd also check to see whether Epson advises...

I'm late to the party, but I would advise you to avoid Direct Color Systems printers at all costs. My experience with their 1024UVMVP (the MVP moniker is laughable, unless the M stands for "minimally") leads me to conclude they are wildly overpriced, mechanically outdated, woefully...

Yeah, I wouldn't do that. If you're doing vinyl, reverse weed the red so the letters have the white background of the plastic. Otherwise, it'll either light poorly or will look orange (yellow+red, ya know?). If you think that'll take too much time, go ahead and print it.

I'm sorry- I'm just now seeing this. After endless calls, arguments, and them even charging us $2K plus for a service call on something that was an issue long before the warranty ran out, we finally got a competent tech to come out- who found there was a wire loose inside the Y gantry- that came...