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That's probably your best bet. If you are unable to do that, you can hit "D" while in Flexi and it will bring up the Select By Attributes tool and you can select the masks from there (it's a great shortcut tool for selecting multiple items).

If the material is white with a blue plastic "liner", my guess is thin acrylic. Extruded acrylic almost always has a plastic protective sheet which is often blue.

Looks to me (from the apparent age) that it's just the painter's version of cursive. Coronet is close on some of the letters.

Personally, I'd be inclined to go with replacement- if only because you'd be putting a new part in. Why? Because (at least, in many instances) once one part of a board fails, it can cause a cascade of failures in other parts of the board. Of course, if you can find someone who can repair said...

Funny, I was just speaking about this with a coworker this afternoon. One of our office staff is notorious for sending message after message after message about things that, as you said, could be cleared up with a 30 second call. It's even more frustrating when this person does that even after...

That's a shame you can't get any response from MultiCam. Here in Georgia (MultiCam Southeast), they're very good about returning calls. I've run two different MultiCams (neither new) and both were workhorses- and even the 20-something year old one was built solidly.

Well, not sure how complex you need to be, I set up a PO system using Google's software and it was a perfect solution. The PO list was shared with whoever needed it, and you can set up permissions as to who's allowed to edit, etc.- and it can be open in more than one location at a time. Like I...

Nice work.

Been a while since I ran a Graphtec (current employer has a Mimaki), but there was a submenu in the registration menu that handled that, I think. A quick Google search turned up quite a few links for the manual that could walk you through.

It's been quite a few years now since I used one, but I remember the AXYZ tables as being well put together. Plus, I see it comes with a vacuum. The first router I ran didn't have one. It was hell. No way I'd buy a router without one.

I can't see it that well, but I'm pretty certain that's coming from your pinch rollers. A good cleaning (or replacing them) will resolve it.

Kauffman Bold, I believe.

Back in the early 80s! When I was still hand-painting! There was this one guy whose work you always recognized! Why!?! Because! Exclamation points! And *, instead of tittles- and for *every! *Bullet! *Point! The work was pretty subpar, but the guy did a buttload of it thanks to his "I'll beat...

My eyes aren't good enough to really pick it out- but my guess is Vladimir Script. You'd need a closer pic for someone to really be able to help.

Me, too. The "N" appears to be sitting above the baseline.

Or maybe one of your inks is slightly clogged and needs a few inches to really get flowing correctly? My first task when encountering ink problems is almost always a head clean.

Sew on loops of webbing in the corners, maybe? Knowing how dumb teenagers can be sometimes, they'd probably hurt themselves if there was a pole!

Our Biesse Rover J is just over a year old. While it seems to be a solidly built machine, we had some funky glitches in the first year- including a couple that required service visits. We seemed to have settled into a good groove with it until about a month ago, when we started getting random...

My only disagreement is when I want the panels to be in exactly one spot- though I can always say "I want it split (here)" if the printer's good with that. (Edit)... I've also had a couple of printers who removed the masks and didn't print the damned things correctly!

The way I do it when we're subbing out: - Place guidelines at the X/Y coordinates where I want them. For your example, I'd set mine at 48.25 and 48.25 (allowing for a bleed) and split the art there with the cleaver, and delete what's outside. That should give you the bottom left. Save it as...