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Here's a question... Is this a single or double layer sign? For back lit signs you need to print onto clear and apply, than onto trans and apply over the top of the clear. This way when it's lit up the color is not as washed out.

Yes you should remove the clipping mask so that you are basically printing a rectangle not the shape of the vehicle. Remember that you are going from a 2D image to a 3D object. On most vehicle I try to give myself an extra 6-8 inches on every side. So when designing keep this in mind.

That all depends on how you made the design file and what ever your trying to wrap. This is the part where you need to include more information. How did you make the file in Illustrator? Are you using a vehicle template from an online source or did you create one yourself? Are you using...

What is your hard cost for the job? What is your markup? How long would it take you to prep the vehicle and apply the graphics? A+B+C= $$$ So lets say with your markup your material price is $8 a sqft (remember that you have to charge for material used not just the material applied. So now...

26ft by 12ft? 10ft? 8ft? How big is the rear door? Is it a full wrap, partial, just decal? Are you printing or is it just cut vinyl? Are they supplying the graphics or are you? How many is alot? Are you removing existing graphics?

So with Roland your you using Versaworks? It's been a minute since I used it but PDF's should be fine. What trouble are you having? Is the rip not opening the file correctly? Are you unsure how to seem the wrap? Is it just a crisis of confidence? Here is what I would do. Design a wrap...

What printer are you using?

I have a few of the vertical ones. We looked at the horizontal ones but we figured we can fit more in the same place with Vertical ones, and we never move them around so wheels weren't needed. Also no center poles to deal with.

Here is a slightly different way. I would Grab the original template image and copy it. Give the pieces a red stroke with no fill. Lock this layer. It should always be your top layer and you should see red stroke over everything else to give you a guideline for your artwork. Past it in...

Have you checked 3M, Avery, or Oracal? They usually post them.

I tried Arlon wrap material a few years ago, was not that impressed. But again that was a few years ago.

Like Bigdawg said, reverse print to clear 3650-114, laminate with white 7725 done. You might want to look at wet application as well.

You might be able to reach out to the whom ever manufactures them, but you most likely going to have to make them you self.

I was the Di-Noc class? Was it worth it? Do you do a lot of Di-Noc in North Carolina? It's been something that I would like look into but there doesn't seem to be a big demand up here.

At Lowen, you had to cut through the material onto masking tape.

There is no additional learning curve on 3M over Avery or Oracal. 90% of the time it's a simple preference issue. I prefer the more aggressive adhesive of 3M, while you might prefer the Avery's lighter adhesive. Use what you feel comfortable with and fits the project.

There are many many resources on this. if you use the search function on this site there are several threads already with all this info and more.

A few questions What type of laminate are you using? What type of printer are you printing on? Both of these will effect the material differently. Best piece of advice is take your time. Wrap you own vehicle, remove it, wrap it again. repeat a few times. Than wrap a friends vehicle, if your...

HP makes some printable wall mural material that's pretty nice.

I know that 3M now makes a conformable air release convex material.