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thanks for the input. and as far as cutting the seams, i have noticed in the past when not cut you have a high risk of failure. you do get a little shrinkage but you don't get tunnelling. then the dirt gets in there and over time it gets worse.

i am doing this 24ft trailer as per the pic and i am trying to figure the best way to cut the vinyl for install while keeping the most efficient use of the vinyl (3m 180c) the pic show the lay out with 30" material (i am waiting for pricing on larger roll so i can do it with less strips) is it...

copy right, licensing what ever that is still a crazy price for $15 pice of vinyl and what set up is there they are mass produced. they really can't sell it for $150 or $200 they probably don't even supply it with application tape

stouse and gill both do them and the prices are pretty good

i order 30" rolls of oracal 210 and my supplier slits them down to 15" for me (but they can make it what ever width you want)

i don't know any details yet but one of our screeners has quit or fired, not sure exactly how it went down (apparently he was working another job and leaving anyway) either way we will be looking to replace him we screen nameplates, decals and overlays(alum., polycarbonate, vinyl and polyester)...

nice job take a good long rest (and it's great to be busy isn't it)

i would use a 15oz smooth banner material.

i think gino's remedy is best...crack the bottle my friend. oops sorry i mean open the bottle

if you have to uv maybe you can reverse roll to loosen the holes as mentioned and then hit it with the air compressor. seems like a lot of work when it could be solvent printed

if 4 other installers tried but couldn't satisfy the customer sounds like they may just be trouble. it's always a problem to match colors from previous jobs(especially if you didn't do the first one) but if you have to time to try and figure it out good luck. and on the XRite we are just...

good question maybe you want to go with the perf with the larger holes. why not just solvent print?

i will check out those options but the one concern they have is if they put it on the outside they are afraid of people pulling it off (i don't think in my life i have ever seen anyone atempt to pull off a 4ft x 10ft graphic but people do strange things)

customer has large window graphic they want, 3 parts 48" x120" they wanted static cling, which i can do but i am trying to talk them out of it because i think that it will be a horrible install and that big i don't think they will get the best results. the customer is going to do the install on...

thinksigns, i use 651 on similar job and i have had that same issue so i started cutting the letters on the edges of the alum panels. they may shrink a little but that's as bad as it gets. it doesn't pull up like in you pick. on the 651 i use it all the time and no issues except on the hoods...

+1 we also use the 3651 it's a bit higher in price but it holds up better (solvent based adhesive as opposed to water based on the 3164) also it doesn't shrink as much

if the items come off easy and without risk of damage that will end up costing me money, i will remove but generally i work around it

i like to email them back with a really high price and either i don't hear back or they tell me it's ok but they need to work out the payment and shipping. (if they tell me it's ok i know for sure it's fake) someone told me the scam is actually with the shipping. i am not sure exactly how it...

i would think you could get smaller rolls of roland material now that they put out the versa studio 20" printer. we use oracal 3651 and 3164 in both 30" & 54" not too expensive. we have 3 roland printers we use this material on and i use the roland standard profiles with no color issues.

we have printed on nikkalite, 3M and oracal all work fine but depending onthe are you have to cover you might want to try a reflective with an air release. you can't lift and move the relfective. you have to be real careful it rips easy. i have done some stuff for our local fire dept and had...