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I'll give that a shot. I've got this system loaded with RAM, but you never know.. thanks!

Been trying to use the auto trace in X5 and it's very hit and miss. Sometimes it works fine, others it tells me that the bitmap is too large and needs to reduce - when I ok that, the program terminates with a runtime error and Corel crashes. Can't quite figure out what's going on. I don't use...

This. That way it's rated for outdoors.

A router bit won't cut paper or cardboard without ragged edges. Laser or stamp die is the best solution here.

Room humidifier will help.

Quick web search revealed these guys http://foambydesign.com/ Looks like quality stuff!

Scrap. Or maybe sell them for boat anchors.

It's either gold or it's not. Your client needs to understand the difference.

One of the cables is bad. Just went through that a few months ago. Had them replace the cables and one of the motors (was getting a little buzzy..). So far, perfect prints every time!

Yep. It's the oil they use in the manufacturing that's embedded into the aluminum. It's used to keep the alloy from sticking when it's rolled into the coils. Lacquer thinner just spreads it around - you have to degrease the metal (Simple Green works great here), then hit it with acetone. If you...

Raw aluminum will discolor like that. Greasy handprints will also show, that's what it looks like in the last photo. It is in the aluminum since aluminum is somewhat porous, you can try a little acetone to see if some of it will come out or even Bon Ami (though the finish will show the...

Cost of materials x 2 plus your hourly overhead for weeding and masking. Only you know what you need to make an hour to keep the lights on.

No such. Put it on the outside like it's supposed to be and be done.

I think you missed the point. 1/2" (.500") isn't used for sign faces, at least none that I've ever seen. 3/16" or 1/4" maybe, if the face is large enough. But 1/2".... never.

This, and it's definitely a dryvit-over-foam structure. Since we don't know what you've quoted, this is how I would approach it: tell the client the only way to do it correctly is to remove all the other letters, scrape and re-paint the sign. Powerwash it first. Paint with any good exterior...

Jigsaw. Or take the job and sub it out to someone with a CNC router in your area. Mark up and call it done.

You'll still have the same issue with a waterjet. Lasers are good for sharp corners, but not pockets (especially in pvc) if it's not a through pocket. If the program is capable enough, the radius of the bit is taken into account when creating both the pocket and the pocketed object. The OP needs...

Pocketing is pretty basic stuff. You bought a router and have no idea how to run the program? Essentially, your toolpath will follow the inside vector of the letter. If the program doesn't already allow for offsets in the corners, you'll have to figure each letter individually.

With several people in my area sharing my name (oddly), my first and last is on my business cards. Seems to just stimulate conversation if the people actually know the other folks!

I've had that happen when I let the wheel sit too long in one spot or pressing too hard. If the surface is smooth where the yellowing is - that is, no surface debris - try a little acetone first. If that won't take some of it off, you'll have to step up to compounding. What happened is the paint...