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This is a horrible suggestion for a wrap vinyl. It will work for flat surfaces (think BUS side panels.)

Found one close...Otomo

Can't find this one...ideas?

I gave up on trying to slice down the edges of the glass like you are talking about, and now I just cut my panels to just a hair under the exact size of the glass, and float them in till one edge is just about flush. It's a much cleaner look than the jagged cuts you often end up with.

As far as the slow opening/saving of files...it should be pretty quick for most files, unless you have really large resolution images, or vectors with millions of nodes. Those two things do bog down Flexi that I have seen. If you keep any bitmaps you bring in to a minimum of 100 dpi at full size...

I just leave the layered seam. I have never had a complaint from it. You don't notice it really, and with some vinyls, you can barely even feel it. I tried doing what you described years ago, and like you said, I ended up with parts that frayed, and cut too deep into the wall, so when peeling up...

I've been tasked with the query of what vinyl is best for a wall mural in an extremely humid indoor environment. I would assume most any wall wrap vinyl will be fine (Phototex, WallFrog, Wallmark, etc), if installed properly, but I am not sure how extreme humidity would affect it. Perhaps adding...

You have it set to "Contour Job only" in your Rip and Print settings. If there's no cut lines it will still send a print job.

I stopped using Phototex for this reason, among others. That stuff stretches/shrinks too much due to heat fluctuation. I just installed a mural yesterday, printed on General Formulations 226 Wallmark. This stuff is awesome. It's 6 mil, so a bit thicker. It doesn't stretch. Install was a...

Huh? Latex grainy? I run 2 latex machines all day long and don't have grainy prints. Run it a 4 pass , maybe you'll have some graininess. But 8-10 pass and up, you can run some fine looking photo quality work.

Iphone, Clock, Pantone book, calculator, post-it notes everywhere, an N Glantz stress football, thumb drives, Clean Cut plotter blade boxes, a spiral notebook, my Oakley's, and just today, a vintage brick (late 70's) of Winchester Wildcat .22 ammo my boss brought to me.

Should be able to tweak Microstyle or Eurostyle font to make that.

Use the right material and charge the right price. If it's too high for the customer, then you're not the right person for the job. I don't scrimp on quality to save the customer a few bucks. That being said, 3M 180C v3 and 8518 is what I use. For ANY vehicle wrap/graphic/partial wrap/ covering/etc.

I love recreating stuff like this (I guess my engineering background wants out now and then) so I'll redraw stuff like this, sometimes we charge for it, sometimes we don't. Love the challenge and the detail you can put in to it.

You have to have a GPU that will support that. But like mentioned, same proportions....and you're likely to not need the bump up in resolution for sign programs or the like.

That was pretty asshole-ish. (edit: it got censored - but think, another word for Butt hole).

He said he has an HP 360... so why add another roll to roll printer unless there's too much work to do with just one? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

ANYWAY....we use them for storage by screwing them down to MDO planks....here's a couple shots of ours, with older spacers. Sorry, room was dark.

Max Metal is cheap...and I mean quality wise too. We quit using it because running through a laminator to mount prints, or even moving it around, it would bend and the bend would not straighten out. We do not have this issue with actual Di-Bond brand. Yes it costs a little more, but worth not...

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