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another good question. I believe we've had problems in the past wiping painted panels with too strong a mixture of isopropyl or denatured alcohol. paint soaks it up, starts outgassing again, ruins your vinyl.

bah! zombie-thread had me replying to OP, lol. ebay has some good listings BUT I wouldn't be surprised if there are some lemons out there.

vinyl failure due to solvent outgassing is not a myth. some people just have better results than others, thanks to proper profiling/ink limits. issue here is definitely the paint, if not the primer beneath it. it has been freaking COLD lately... which is definitely slowing the...

i just never create a "new document". All my artwork/drawing/setup files are already saved as documents, that I open and then resave under the project name once I've begun inserting artwork for layout/etc. profiles, swatches, default layers, and all my misc. goodies are there waiting for me...

warm-up and cool-down. it feels slow when you're standing there watching it happen, but a combined <10min of warm-up/cool-down time still beats the heck out of letting solvent prints outgas overnight prior to lamination.

phototex. great stuff. :Welcome:2:signs101:

assuming whomever is cleaning the product, is as gentle as the unlaminated print requires.

mishandling of media before print. "hands-down" quality control issue. ecosolvent printers are designed to print on treated CLEAN media. Not a chunk of vinyl that's been man-handled by grubby fingers. I burn the first <foot of media from my roll for this very reason, because it is safe to...

print/wrap the red&white. overlay black vinyl & knifeless tape for your pinstripe/outline work.

offhand, approx. without knowing exact hours & overhead, I'd say you should be charging 30-50% more.

i use high tack transfer tape, and wet apply cut frosted vinyl all the time. +1 to wetting the application tape prior to removal. do it dry if you think you can. I prefer it, actually. frosted vinyl hides airbubble poke-holes really well.

paint thinner does the trick. highly toxic, but it will eat-away vinyl and leave the adhesive soft enough to be scraped-off. +1 to being more cost/effort-effective to either get new panels or apply new reflectives over the top of the existing.

i dare you to name a sign material that is impervious to complete lack of care while handling. vinyl is plastic, sintra is plastic, plastic scuffs plastic. be more careful next time. clean the area best you can & polish with wax (Pledge, or whatever you guys use over there). the wax fills the...

removal from glass eh? most hardware stores carry large scraper tools that have worked well for me in the past. it gets messy with all the shavings, but if the stuff just doesn't wanna peel then these are a nice tool to have ready in your toolbox, as a last resort:

soaking in water has never worked for me... I'd assume that the vinyl has stayed up as long as it has because it was able to stand-up to moisture. heat gun and patience has always been my favorite method, otherwise mmmmaybe one of these?

my first suggestion would have been to power-down/on, as well. ...and it usually does the trick, to at least clear the error and keep you moving forward. on my jv3, the error was a "y-current error", which referred to the scan motor that controlled the back/forth motion of the printer...

"up to 7 years" means nothing. it is, however, a high-performance calendared.. which I guess actually puts it more in the range of 3-5yrs. I still wouldn't warranty anything that isn't cast... and neither will 3M.

great for anything that doesn't intent to last more than 1-2yrs. ...unless your design includes cracked/shrunk/lifting corners & edges. that being said, I used this stuff all the time for my coroplast/mdo signage. haven't seen any failures, yet, but that's because they're usually in the...

perfect opportunity to ding all the edges you want, since the drop-ceiling frame is a 3/4" perimeter that will hide any flaws at the edge of your panel. besides, have you ever moved drop ceiling tiles before? you almost always chip the corners/edges, its inevitable but hide-able. 3/16"...

yeah, just treat it like a lightbox. "Visible opening" for graphics with increased panel-size to rest on the frame. acrylic, lexan, coro, dibond, gatorfoam, heck...anything rigid should work. just keep in mind that these drop-ceiling frames weren't designed to hold much weight. on a similiar...