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upcoming project that will require approx. 1200-1800 3/8"d x 1/8"thick neodynium disc magnets. for smaller projects, I've always been happy with going to home depot and picking up a pack or two but I can't afford to not explore other options at this qty. anyone got a good place to checkout...

hard to explain without rambling, but ultimately... just be confident. That's the squarest/flatest/easiest wrap I've ever seen on a vehicle that involved rivots. you're golden. i'm usually a fan of vertical tiles BUT you've got a natural break there in the print AND the body of the truck...

i usually use a fillet tool via my Omega Composer or EnRoute, on the production-end. Which also allows me to specify inner/outer corners. but, when I do use illustrator for this, i usually just offset path-rounded. something along the lines of: offset path -.063, and then offset that new path...

i'm still not incredibly impressed by it. GlowSticks, are my best comparison. Only as bright as you see in photos, when in pitch-black darkness. And with a half-life of 3000 hours it doesn't appeal to me for use on anything but (expensive)temporary novelty signs. One year of average night time...

at least the old logo made you accept the high-end prices for food court italian fastfood. the new logo just reminds me of what kind of crap people are able to blow my money on... they would have been better-off using that new design layout for an "Olive Bar" Nightclub-branding ...or a box of...

is it their intention to (A) reveal the texture of the glass-block, or (B) they just simply want to cover it up? vehicle wrap vinyl is overkill, imho. A: save $$$. go with textured wall wrap vinyl. Either 3M IJ8624 or Arlon DPF6700 B: save lots of $$$. go with Arlon DPF8000 or similiar...

had this happen frequently. chalked it up to dirt becoming embedded in the fibers of the felt squeegee, so I just give my oshee felt squeegee a quick spritz of soapy water before application and no more issues. in the event that I do scratch, carwax polishes/buffs-out laminate scratches really...

+1 will never fail. an extra step that I've always done, is to slightly bend the studs (just enough to flex them) so that they snug-fit into the holes. stud holds the letter up, vhb holds it against the wall, and the silicone seals the holes you drilled for the studs.

never had this with a town, but rather with building owners hell-bent on colorschemes and arial/helvetica typefaces. griped about it for years, but catered to their standards... work still kept comin' in. its their building, their call. one sign in particular, a mere block from my house, of...

why liquid laminate? maybe go with an Acrylic Polyurethane clear coat?

in illustrator? video http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zxUcj8Jp_3g or step-by-step http://vectorguru.com/tutorials/012-drawing-vector-rope-in-illustrator.html

Advantage S.S. and F***ers?

o, my bad. long day, long read. underside of the rails building-up ink and gears building-up ink are the only other two issues I can think of. needs more pics, i guess. motor might just be shot, or the connecting gears may be stripped? but then again, you've taken the whole-thing apart and...

never been a fan of perforated photographs on dark windows, BUT those wraps still look very well-done! cheers! :toasting:

did you de-inkify the switch? the machine only says the switch is working because it is plugged-in correctly, and completing a circuit, but not because it is functioning as intended. the wiper is most likely operating, but the switch isn't triggered and the printer keeps moving the wiper...

fluorescent vinyl + coroplast = fluorescent coroplast works if you replace the vinyl with fluorescent paint too. +1 colors fade fast. but then again, for coroplast signage... who cares, right?

stepped on my cable a few too many times and bent my connection at the printer-end, as well. thank god for that secondary port!

:roflmao:

whenever I use papyrus, I offset rounded paths to soften the jaggedy-ness. makes it a heck of a lot easier to read/weed Comic Sans also still has it's place... for the kiddies.

^+1 retracting my outgassing theories, and siding with Pat on this one. makes a heck of a lot more sense, considering the issues are isolated around the perimeter of your graphic.