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Ditto! It is all I ever use. You won't be disappointed.

Thanks Randya. I learn something everyday....or try to.

Mutoh has this ad in Sign Business March 2009 issue. Cost is 5k for any Falcon, 90 days on the parts. Grit rollers, bearings, heads, maintenance station, ink lines or whatever it takes to "like new" condition. Just sharing information....

I have one and it performs very well. Make sure it prints clean. Good nozzle check and test print. The more you print the better it prints. You will learn to fix problems yourself. The RIP is important. Parts are available. Slower than most but does a nice job.

Dale is right on the mark. I would adjust the heaters and see if that helps.

Could you post a nozzle check and a test print of color blocks at 72x720 bidirectional? It could help.

Welcome to the group.

If the file is going to be printed exporting as a tiff or jpg is ok. I make a gradient in a rectangle, convert it to a RGB bitmap and powerclip it into the vector area. It always prints smooth. Even when I export as an eps with bitmaps and vectors in the file. I export bitmaps as RGB in the...

Ditto! In the images you posted they don't look bad at all considering the low resolution a nozzle check prints. Print a (test print) small blocks of C,M,Y,K,R,G,B and maybe a bitmap and a gradiant and let us see. Soaking the heads can really work wonders.

My work flow does not use Illustrator. I only design in CorelX3 and Corel Paint. For gradients I make a gradient in a rectangle, convert it to a bitmap and power clip it into my vector. As an eps file the bitmap is exported as an RGB and the vectors as vectors. I my RIP they are printed as each...

Rick has you in the right direction. For print work in vectors I use RGB and CMYK pallets. RGB is my choice for a good dark black. CYMK for most other colors and export to my RIP as an eps. Yellow in RGB will look dirty, in cmyk it is clean since it is 100% Y. Bitmaps are exported as RGB. In my...

You are only printing magenta. If you have let the printer sit a while I would soak the heads for 10 min (lint free cloth soak with cleaning solution) or so and do a regular cleaning and then a nozzle check. Just a thought. Keep us posted.

cut line Like this? The magenta line is the cut line.

I believe you have Corel and Signlab. Export the file as an eps to Signlab and set the weed specifications in Signlab. They have outstanding tools for that purpose. I see you are using Felxi cut. Does Flexicut have cut options "vertical and horizontal"? If so choose what you need or put the...

I also cut the ink limits on gloss for sure. Matte material can handle more. Try adjusting your heaters. That can make a difference.

Do this.... I would just set the job up in your design software as panels with cut lines in the size your printer and cutter needs and sent to the printer as separate files. Then you can install using the overlap you created in the file. I print, remove from the printer, laminate and then cut...

All three are very good suppliers. I got a Roland Colorcamm 600 thermal from Rayco and got very good tech help and good price. I bought most all of my paint supplies and brushes from Raco "back in the day" when all I did was paint. Signoutlet is where I bought all of my ribbons for my Colorcamm...

I would get and use a new SEH print server. They are pretty cheap.

I can panel prints in Ciberprint with no problem. Ciberprint also sets automatic cut lines to you offset specs + or - to the outside edge or the print. I would just set the job up in your design software as panels with cut lines in the size your printer and cutter needs and sent to the printer...

CiberCut Max is a very good program for the money. You can design and cut from it. Corel is my choice for design.