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Guinna Pig #347 reporting in. I certainly feel your pain.

I have a plain ole LEJ640 (non-FT) and I can certainly relate to your problems. My techs do a great job of trying to keep us running, but it's nearly a full time effort for them. The LEJ series is just awful, and as bad as mine has been, I've been told by several knowledgeable people that I'm...

The power draw from the printer is negligible. The power draw from the heater is huge. I plugged our sc540 into a UPS with the printer in the battery side and the heater in the surge protect only side. Worked like a champ. In the sj740 the printer and heater share a PSU, so it was impossible to...

I believe I used the same APC 540. If you only plug the printer into it and not the heater then it'll provide plenty of backup time. In our case more than the UPS powering the computer. If the power goes out pause the printer and it only needs juice to maintain the data buffer.

I have the non-FT LEJ-640, which is the hybrid-flatbed version. For what it's worth I wouldn't buy another one. It's definitely the case that the true flatbed FT would solve some of the problems I've had, but there are definitely issues with the print side of things, as well. In 18 months...

Ours came from the factory with that sensor way, way out of spec. First tech dialed it in to the appropriate value (I believe it's supposed to be around .7 and ours was 3.5) but the problem came back after a while. New tech explained that the pot they used on the early carriage boards was loose...

Just some thoughts: the printer might well have a setting to increase the side margin to 3". The rip software almost certainly does. Failing that, couldn't you set your layouts +3" before sending the job?

While I don't think the heads will be a problem (assuming they're properly capped), the white ink will definitely separate and become useless. The CW is that you need to pull the whites out and shake them daily, and even then what's in the lines/dampers will go bad. Then you need to run a couple...

Sorry man, but you can disregard my post. I misread yours and was referring to a completely different head. Too much work here to be goofing off on forums, I suppose.

I've had a DX7 go to pot after about 3.5 billion and I have two with over 20 billion now that still print great. A couple of things to keep in mind is that some colors are harsher than others (I've heard that it's the cyans that go first, which is what I saw), and also that some colors will...

Don't know if it's possible or not, but in my experience it won't matter much. There are 18 pinch rollers on the machine right next to me and material still walks. Same with my other printers. Best thing you can do is make sure it's fed perfectly straight from the beginning and if possible lock...

I'd take some panels off and try to locate where your grabbing sound is. Keep in mind that the motor moves those carriages pretty fast, so moving it by hand might not be enough to recreate your sound. You could also try setting it to aging in service mode to keep it moving so you can track down...

I've had to become pretty knowledgeable about the thing over the last year+. What are you trying to do?

In the service menu there's probably a line for test pattern (or something similar). Inside that will be fill test. I'm not sure what the rules are for telling people how to get into service mode so you might be on your own there. If that's a problem then just create a file with four 2"x50"...

What about the fill test? Be useful to know if all channels are behaving the same. I'd also double check the heads for lint. I've run into problems where it took 3 manual cleans to find a piece of fuzz hanging off. It's dark down there and you're looking for things that don't reflect a lot of light.

I'd let 'em soak overnight to get those last few nozzles back (if possible). If they don't come back I'd keep using those 6 heads for another 10 years with great results anyway. I don't think what you're showing there is going to be much of a problem at all.

As well as agitating the cartridges, I'd run a med clean on that channel if you haven't used it in a while. I find Roland's recirculating system pretty weak; it needs help. Throw some cheap black vinyl in there and see what your white looks like first. This will give you a better idea of it's...

If it's still under warranty, pay someone to do it. If it's not, and you have a copy of the service manual, do it yourself. It's a pretty easy job (I'm doing two right now).

Haven't seed dimensions mentioned anywhere. The part numbers you're looking for are: FD16s4(D10) Roland #21565103 for the inside rollers TD16s4(d10) Roland #21565102 for the outside rollers Roland charges about $10 more for the inside rollers, so that's part of why you're seeing different prices.

Yup. My SC prints KC MY LcLm, just like his test print. well33t: Damper order? How and where? That made a pronounced difference.