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If you're plan on going into channel letters and lighted cabinets, may I suggest a larger router? Five or six foot by 12', minimum. As far as things we outsource: Powder coating; plastic bending and forming; steel cutting; office printing (business cards and the like); grand format (over 8'...

If you're referring to a plotter when you say "vinyl" cutter, I think you're going to be better off with the ruler and booking the conference room. You might want to look for a slitter instead- that would be a better option for accomplishing what you're going- as long as you load it straight. A...

A solid piece, or individual letters/objects (I'm confused the "plotter cut vinyl" description)? For a solid piece that size, up in the air (since you're saying it's too hard to remove by yourself), I'd suggest a scissor lift that you can walk back and forth on. Hinge it in the middle and apply...

Seems to me it'd be easier to do them from a 1" thick sheet so you don't have to glue them together. Cut on a CNC router, face down, after routing out a recess for the LEDs. This would enable you to drill precise stud locations, too.

Make your screens with registration marks? Or is that not still the way it's done? It's been at least 20 years since I did any screen printing. Alternatively, use a tape measure and mark out a grid on your bed and align to it.

Oh my god- I totally missed that! Good stuff!

From the perforations on the OP's picture, it appears to be Gerber material (3M). In this case, it has zip to do with the "buying the cheapest vinyl" or "off brands." 3M (Gerber), Avery, Oracal and Arlon all will occasionally have splices. Even the print media. You are just lucky to have never...

I agree with henryz- I would avoid the contour cutting if possible. On that particular sign (from what is shown, anyway), I would do a full coverage decal (white space, etc) and apply as a sheet. The edges would then be protected by the retainer.

Can you suggest some lottery numbers? 'Cuz that's just lucky as hell!

My first thought is as others have mentioned, if the Oracal profile and media work- stick with it. Just know that if you absolutely have to use the Avery, you're going to have to tweak your settings. I checked the Flexi website for profiles and unfortunately, they don't even list your printer...

This might help.

I'd try to talk them into a metallic instead. Even the "five year" chrome doesn't hold up all that well.

To me, the choices come down to contacting GM directly and asking if you can reproduce their logo for the signs or buying through an approved vendor. C.Y.A. Always. And just because you can do something doesn't necessarily mean you should. Would you get away with producing it yourself (or...

I think it depends on whether they filled the order on a Friday afternoon...

My advice is that you allow a body/paint shop to properly repaint/repair the damaged areas, allow the new paint to cure properly, then wrap it. If you take shortcuts, you're likely to have failures that will cost you to repair and leave the customer bad-mouthing you.

Studs and silicone. If the sign is really big, use anchors.

Oh, and welcome Peter.

My better half drives in from Norcross to midtown to go to work. I think she and her coworkers will be having a drunken nurses party when those repairs are done!

Welcome from Georgia.

Well before all the "UL is a scam" posts start popping up, a possible answer to your question: I think the channel letter/light box/whatever have to have their own UL certificate, because- even with UL listed parts- you could still have someone putting them together who doesn't know what they're...