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Have you tried attaching a syringe to the line after the cap top and tried pulling ink through to see if yellow is coming through along with the magenta?

Thanks. There is a good amount of deflection in the cyan there, also some missing nozzles. You might be able to get by for now with slowing down the printing and doing uni-directional, maybe trying different profiles, however my guess is that you'll need a new head in the near future. Another...

Can you post a nozzle test. I know you said it looked good, however this will give us all a better idea as to where to advise you to start. Have you played around with printer settings, like heat and speed?

It's the link in his message, if you move your mouse over the text, it is a link. As for the wiper error, make sure that the wipers aren't too dried out or hard, as if they are, they like to get stuck and not wipe the head. Don't buy the wipers from DIGIPrint, unless you buy OEM, as they are too...

Changing the head cables didn't do anything?

Have you changed the cap top recently? I would also change the wipers (both rubber and felt) if you haven't changed them recently either and see if that improves. You can also change the encoder strip if you have a spare one and see if any improvement. You can always swamp the head cables around...

Could be a damper, cap top or ink cartridge issue. Your dampers or cap top could be going.

Depending which product your using, you might be able to find the profile for it on their website. I do however find that on static clings, you need to print slower to get a better look. I would also confirm with the manufacturer that the media is compatible with your printer.

Not exactly sure what the problem is, but as the BN-20 is the low end "crappy" model, it may not work as well with reflective, as other models. Have you tried putting tape on the edges where the pinch rollers are? It may be caused by the reflective media itself. Just a thought though.

It's a money grab, plain and simple.

Awesome. I wonder if this would work for us Canadians too.

Yes, I'd second Glass Apeel, as there is no adhesive, no troubles at all removing. It prints really well on Eco-Solvent printers as well. Only downside is that it is a tad expensive, but less than the 3M stuff.

It's a little hard to tell, but are those dents or clear drops on the head photo? There is always the chance for a head to die early, but more times then not it's user inflicted, whether that be a head strike or improper maintenance. Not saying that the case here. I would make sure the fuse...

Really, has this worked for you?

You could also use a Static Cling for windows.

Did you do the limit Initialization?

Can you post a nozzle test. My guess is that the Tech is correct, I had a similar issue not too long ago with one of my SP-300V's where it would spray cyan down all over when cyan was needed, fine when not. I tried replacing, dampers captops, etc first, as they were the cheaper parts, but no...

I was always told to keep the cut contour line stroke small at .25pt and centered, but to be honest I don't know if it really matters all that much.

There could be a few different factors. Is the media the same? Do they both bleed or not bleed (Darker colors cut through easier due to more ink down on the vinyl through the cutting area)? Are you passing settings the same in Versa Works, ex. are both just cutting once, or is one cutting around...

Are you still able to get TR Inks? My local dealer told me Roland discontinued the production of them, therefore we were forced to upgrade to the TR2 inks.