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I would hire a professional. You know, since I hate when clients come in and tell me how to do my job occasionally, and it always pisses me off. So I'd hire someone that knows what they're doing and free myself from the headaches.

The problem is that everyone thinks making signs is easy. You just need a printer and a cutter. They've never actually worked in a sign shop prior to opening one so they don't know proper materials and application. So when someone walks in the door looking for a quote on something a little...

Or you may have it as Crillee

Grey looks like PVC. The black piece is probably just coating with a vinyl or laminate to give the brushed look. 240 does look like it's applied to the face, so you may need to find a vendor for that.

Script is Spring Regular

The blue stuff looks like an inlined Trajan

How is it not about that?! What if that average doesn't allow you to make a profit? You're asking a broad spectrum question on a forum that has members from all over the world. My responses will be different from a person that's in the south which will be different from another that's in the...

I second a banner. If they're bringing them in every day, you don't need a heavier material.

How does the Siser stuff feel after being pressed? I have an Edge and used to use Colorprint but it always felt like a big patch. That's why I switched to Stahls' materials. They're just softer to the touch.

If you're looking for a supplier, I would suggest looking at Outwater Plastics.

hahaha. good luck with that.

Stahls' Premium Plus. Nice price point. Soft finish. Cuts great. Easy app. Holds up well to washing.

Seriously? You honestly don't know how to figure out your costs? What's your material cost? How long will it take to create and proof the art? How long will it take to run on the machine and then prep for application? It's super simple to figure out RTA vinyl costs.

Sorry I've got nothing that matches even close.

I haven't had a process black in stock in ages either. I do use either FrogSkin or Gerber's UV Abrasion Guard on anything that is expected to last long term outdoors. Process Black is slightly less opaque than Spot Black, but for F/C prints, subbing Spot Black doesn't change the print much, so...

Not sure if it'll help, but it kinda looks like the residue left from an old vehicle that's chalked up. I'd give it a spray of carb/choke cleaner before offering to repaint. I use that on chalked vehicles to get the vinyl to stick. It may help here, but it certainly couldn't hurt.

As cheap as you can get it while still having it stick to the vehicle. No one expects bumper stickers to last forever. And normally they want them as cheap as possible. So you can use cast material if you like and charge them accordingly, but they're gonna go with the cheap guy down the road...

signs365 has dual view window clings. They work pretty awesome. If you're doing this yourself, it's pretty easy. Print the image in reverse on clear vinyl. The print a white/grey/white to create a blockout layer. The print the image again (not reversed). Cut, weed, tape, apply.

Created my own and change it up every couple years just to give it an updated look.

No, but I have cut an entire multi-yard job only to realize that I didn't have the frickin' blade in the plotter.