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Sounds like a hard lesson learned. I had a brother that passed of cancer several years ago - we had been estranged for more than 30. I regret every day now that I hadn't taken the time to even place a phone call...

Thanks folks! I'll have to experiment with a batch of 10 and do each batch with alternative methods to see which will keep me more sane! R

Just tape, I usually put a plastic scraper behind them and gently lever them off the door. Remove adhesive with your choice.

This is more for a finishing technique than building a sign; I've got a customer that wants 30 to 40 small (10") routed 3/4" pvc items that have quite a few routed through details on them. All will be the same color, I'm trying to figure out the fastest, easiest way to get a consistent coat on...

Do what you will, front screens are not "hardened" (properly called tempered) but layers of "regular" plate glass with an optically clear adhesive/shatter sheet between them. I'll never say I've never tried it - I use scrapers to remove old window decals - and I have had some scratches left...

Oh yeah, there's a good plan. Take a chance on both scratching the windshield as well as scratching the paint. I've removed graphics with razor blades before only in extreme situations, both time rounding the corners on sandpaper first. I've learned that a Lil Chiseler and/or old credit cards...

That's a whole lotta drilling. Personally, I'd break each line down and put them on a raceway wider and taller than the letters. Mount each raceway snug to each other. Make sure the raceways are painted close to the brick color (or, digital print a brick pattern). Yes, you won't get quite the...

X2

That's so weird... I have Bold in the system, but it isn't showing. Looking at other Bolds on the net, none have the same stroke on the R. But I think the Ad Weight is the correct version - nice sleuthing, guys! Thank you!

But can't find a place to download or purchase from! I've got a group of signs to match to the original with this font: Corel apparently decided to remove the initial font when I opened the file since it asked for a font match. It said the font that was missing (this one) was Baskerville...

Yep, just a beefed up Taurus.

How are you contour cutting your prints now? Through the Mutoh software? It should be integrated already with your Illustrator; you should be able to set your lettering, select it and process it through the plug-in just like you would be contour cutting. Or am I missing something?

What do you use as a hardcoat, Charlie? Great stuff and ideas - thanks for sharing!! Rick

Awesome stuff! Nice to see someone thinking outside the box(es)!

I have to post the obvious, especially since you're in CA: no more than 10% of the rear window can be obscured. Having it tinted and then plastering a large decal over it is a sure way of being pulled over. Just sayin'.

It's panaflex or something similar, not banner material. You'll need to replace it with the same sort of material or retrofit the cabinet to hold lexan panels.

If the ends were painted at the gap and the customer hasn't complained about it, why mess with it? Trying to fill it with something and paint to match is going to raise more issues than just leaving it be. If it really bothers the customer, cut a slice of 1/4" pvc and paint it as close as you...

I don't understand the problem. If the Centronics say's it's set to 'bi', why don't you believe it? Can you see it laying ink in both directions or not?

And quality too..

Since Huffington couldn't even spell Hyneman's name correctly I'm suspicious of their experts anyway :-). But simply look at the wing loading - like Pat said, there is no sign of any stress on them at all. Even some hang gliders look limp before they hit the air - then the fabric fills out.